Kashmir and Ladakh road trip-2022

Kashmir and Ladakh

Dream that came true.

Some dreams come true as a surprise. I always wanted to visit Kashmir and Ladakh for a long time and had been pestering my colleague and buddy Tanveer to take me there. Tanveer is a tech entrepreneur, an avid traveler and photographer. One day during lunch in office we just decided to escape this madness called corporate life and travel to this beautiful place and the tickets were booked within minutes. (Yes, we booked tickets without even planning). The plan was to drive from Srinagar to Ladakh!

Planning:

Next came the planning, Tanveer with his excellent planning skills created a plan for the trip which was fool-proof and amazing with the minutest detail.  

Plan … Zoom to read

Bengaluru to Srinagar:

With great excitement we took an early morning flight to Srinagar on Day-1 and immediately I started clicking some pictures from aircraft.

Tanveer and Myself at Bengaluru International Airport
Inside flight on the way to Srinagar
Nandi Hills, Near Bengaluru after take off

In India, wheat crop is grown mainly in the Northern states, with Uttar Pradesh being the top-most contributor of wheat with a total production of 25.22 million tonnes, followed by Punjab (15.78 MT) and Madhya Pradesh (14.18 MT). Here is the aerial shot of wheat fields of Punjab

Wheat Fields of Punjab

As we fly into Kashmir Valley, we fly through “Pir Panjal Range”. The Pir Panjal Range is a group of mountains in the inner Himalayan region, the largest in the lower group of the majestic Himalayas. It lies south of the main outer Himalayan chain of mountains.

Pir Panjal Range extends from the Nilam River in western Kashmir, to the upper Beas River in the North-Western part of Himachal Pradesh. Running from the West-Northwest direction to East-Southeast direction, the Pir Panjal Range covers a distance of more than 200 miles or 320 kilometres

Pir Panjal Range
Pir Panjal Range

Once we cross Pir Panjal Range, the beautiful Kashmir valley can be seen and it is a sight to behold.

The Kashmir Valley, also known as the Vale of Kashmir, is a valley concentrated in the Kashmir of India, it is bounded on the southwest by the Pir Panjal Range and on the northeast by the main Himalayan range.

The Valley, paradise on earth

Jammu & Kashmir is an agri-horticulture state where a large population is economically dependent to agriculture and horticulture, directly or indirectly for livelihood, food and nutritional security. Rice, the staple food of majority population is cultivated in diverse agro-ecological situations extending from subtropical area of Jammu, through temperate valley to cold high altitudes regions of Kashmir, and therefore rice biodiversity is rich in Kashmir.

Rice fields of Kashmir

Day 1-2 : Srinagar

Once in Srinagar, we started exploring the local tourist places and also the famous gardens and Dal Lake.

I Love Srinagar

Khawa

Khawa is a Kashmiri tea flavored with cinnamon, cardamom, and saffron. It is a great drink to sip on cold winter days but can be had throughout the year. Khawa is served in a traditional samovar! A samovar (Kashmiri: samavar) is a traditional Kashmiri kettle used to brew, boil and serve Kashmiri salted tea and Khawa. Kashmiri samovars are made of copper with engraved or embossed calligraphic motifs. The Samovar is an all-time favourite domestic utensil in the entire valley of Kashmir. It is one of the finest examples of the splendid art or craftsmanship and is known for its superb quality and distinct design.

Samavar
Khawa

Chashme Shahi

Chashme Shahi is one of the Mughal gardens built in 1632 AD around a spring by Ali Mardan Khan, a governor of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as per the orders of the Emperor, as a gift for his eldest son Prince Dara Shikoh. The garden is located in the Zabarwan Range, near Raj Bhawan (Governor’s house) overlooking Dal Lake in Srinagar, Kashmir, India.

Chasme Shahi Garden

Pari Mahal

Pari Mahal or Peer Mahal, also known as The Palace of Fairies, is a seven-terraced garden located at the top of Zabarwan mountain range, overlooking the city of Srinagar and the south-west of Dal Lake

Srinagar Shalimar area from Pari Mahal
Pari Mahal
Dal Lake from Pari Mahal

Day 2-3 : Gulmarg

Our next stop was Gulmarg! Gulmarg also known as Gulmarag in Kashmiri, is a town, hill station, popular skiing destination, and notified area committee in the Baramulla district of Jammu and Kashmir, India. It is located at a distance of 31 km from Baramulla and 49 km from Srinagar.

Gulmarg with its flowers
Shiva Temple with Mount Afarwat in the background
Shiva Temple
At Dusk

Kongdoori ( Gulmarg )

Kongdori is a bowl-shaped area that lies between Gulmarg and the summit on the Apharwat mountain range. Kongdori is also a stop or a station during the Gulmarg Gondola Cable Car journey. The popular cable car’s first stage was a transfer to the Kongdori Valley station (10,500 ft); the optional second stage takes visitors to the Afarwat Mountaintop (13,500 ft). There are glorious views of the rolling meadows at the foot of the Afarwat Mountains, in the Pir Panjal ranges surrounding Gulmarg.

Kongdoori
Tourists with pony’s at Kongdoori

Day 3-4 : Sonamarg

From Gulmarg we drove to Sonamarg.

Sonamarg or Sonmarg, known as Sonamarg in Kashmir, is a hill station located in the Ganderbal District of Jammu and Kashmir, India. It is located about 62 Kilometers from Ganderbal Town and 80 kilometres northeast of the capital city, Srinagar and it is on the way to Leh.

Tanveer and Myself at Sonamarg


Thajiwas Glacier

No Visit to Sonamarg is complete without visiting Thajiwas Glacier. Thajiwas Glacier, located at an altitude of 9,186 feet at a short distance from Sonmarg in Jammu & Kashmir, is enormous and blessed with magnificent beauty. Overlooked by the Thajiwas mountain and surrounded by meadows, conifer trees and frozen lakes, it is one of the most beautiful sights you will ever come across. Tourists visit Thajiwas Glacier for enjoying its breathtaking sights, building snowmen & enjoying a sledding ride. You can also take a short hike to the several waterfalls surrounding the Thajiwas Glacier

On the way to the Glacier
My self at glacier
Tanveer at Thajiwas

At the glacier area you will find lot of Bakarwal tribe with their sheep. The Bakarwal community is listed as Scheduled Tribes along with Gujjars in Jammu and Kashmir in 1991. They are a nomadic tribe and they spread over a large part starting from Pir Panjal Range to Hindukush to Ladakh located in Himalayan mountains of South Asia. They are goat herders and shepherds at large and seasonally migrate from one place to another with their herds. They are found in the entire Kashmir region between India and Pakistan, and in the Nuristan Province of northeast Afghanistan

Myself with a Bhkarwal Kid!
Thajiwas landscape dotted with Bhakarwal Tents
Glacier area
Water gushing through Glacier area
The Valley with tourists

Day 5 : Sonamarg to Leh

This was an adventure of a lifetime, we drove from Sonamarg to Leh via Zoji la pass.

Zoji La is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 3.528m (11,575ft) above the sea level, located in the Kargil district of Ladakh, in India. This strip of rock is not the place for a Sunday drive. It’s said to be one of the most treacherous passes in the world.Don’t go by my image , this was after we passed shivering and chilling mountain pass.

The road over the pass is termed as the gateway to the majestic Ladakh.

Zoji-la Road
Glacier at Zoji-La
Myself and Tanveer at Zoji-La

Towards Ladakh a drastic change in landscape

The drive through Srinagar to Leh is amazing and it lets you experience a wide variety of landscapes like green valley surrounded by snow covered peaks to mount passes , but once you cross kashmir valley the landscape of Ladakh is so different , desolate yet beautiful . This drive from Srinagar to Leh is highly recommended for ppl who love driving.

Road to Leh

As we drive towards Leh, not only the landscape changes but also the culture and you can see many small stupas dotting the landscape. Stupas are a monument, originally in the shape of a hemispherical mound, that contains the bodily relics or possessions of the Buddha or a revered teacher

Monasteries in Ladakh are much more than religious centres. Located in heaven that Ladakh is, these famous monasteries are purifying havens where one can find inner peace. This is one such Monastery that dots the landscape .

Monastery

Indus River, Tibetan and Sanskrit Sindhu, Sindhi Sindhu or Mehran, great trans-Himalayan river of South Asia. It is one of the longest rivers in the world, with a length of some 2,000 miles (3,200 km). Its total drainage area is about 450,000 square miles (1,165,000 square km), of which 175,000 square miles (453,000 square km) lie in the ranges and foothills of the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush, and the Karakoram Range;

Indus

The Indus river originates in the Tibetan Plateau near the Manasarovar range, whereas the Zanskar has its source in the Zanskar valley. Both the rivers kiss each other near the scenic Nimmu valley, that falls between Leh and Kargil. The rivers are clearly distinguished by their colours and the confluence can be best viewed during the spring-summer months, from March to May.

Confluence of Indus and Zanskar

Lamayuru or Yuru Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Lamayouro, Leh district, Ladakh, India. It is situated on the Srinagar-Leh highway 15 kilometres east of the Fotu La at a height of 3,510 metres.

Lamayaru

After a 12 hour journey we reached Leh

Leh

Day 5-6-7 : Leh

Leh is the joint capital and largest city of the region administered by India as a union territory of Ladakh, Here we had to rest at acclimatize for 2 days to get used to Low oxygen levels. But we did some local sightseeing alone with some rest.

Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa is a Buddhist white-domed stupa (chorten) on a hilltop in Chanspa, Leh district, Ladakh, in North India. It was built in 1991 by Japanese Buddhist Bhikshu, Gyomyo Nakamura and part of the Peace Pagoda mission. The Shanti Stupa holds the relics of the Buddha at its base, enshrined by the 14th Dalai Lama. The stupa has become a tourist attraction not only due to its religious significance but also due to its location which provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

Shanti Stupa
Leh after Sunset

Matho Monastery

Matho Monastery, or Matho Gonpa or Mangtro Monastery or Mangtro Gonpa, from the Tibetan “mang” that means “many” and “tro” that means “happiness”, is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery located 26 kilometres southeast of Leh in Ladakh, Northern India, on the banks of the Indus River. The village of Matho is located at the mouth of a deep gorge running out of the Zanskar Range and across the Indus. It is directly opposite Thikse Monastery.

Matho Monastery
Stairs to matho
Shrine Inside Matho Monastery

Sindhu Ghat

Sindhu Ghat is the banks of the Indus River in the Ladakh. It is a very peaceful river-bank in the surreal landscape of the Ladakh. Sindhu ghat is quite close to Leh and can be easily combined with a visit to Shey palace and Stok village.

Sindhu Ghat
Monk at Sindhu Ghat

Teju!

Tejaswini is a cousin of mine and I met her in Leh! She is a a brave and adventurous soul who stayed Himalayas for couple of months and who travelled Himachal pradesh and Ladakh on a scooty. You can see her images on her instagram page. https://www.instagram.com/tejaswini_manohar/

With Teju , Leh

Day 7-8 : Leh to Nubra

After 2 days of acclimatization we started driving towards Nubra Valley.

Leh-Ladakh- Land of high passes is the epitome of unlimited adventure and unfathomable beauty. One of the gems of this newly made union territory is the mesmerizing Nubra Valley. This is a fantastic stretch of trail and Leh to Nubra Valley is enjoyed by every traveler. Starting from the capital of Ladakh you get to cross one of the highest motorable roads- Khardung La. From there you will go ahead to Khalsar which is another wonderful spot on this trail.

Crossing the Shyok River, you then have to ride along the Nubra River to reach Nubra Valley. It is a tri-armed valley that sees a separation from Shyok and Siachen Rivers. Nubra is unlike any other valley in the entire country because of the magnificence it has on offer. This breathtakingly beautiful valley is popular for its picturesque landscapes and cold desert. Being the top tourist attraction of Ladakh, Nubra Valley is also famous for Hundar Village and Diskit Monastery. These are two of many go-to attractions in Nubra Valley.

Khardungla Pass!

Khardung La or Khardung Pass is a mountain pass in the Leh district of the Indian union territory of Ladakh. The pass is on the Ladakh Range, North of Leh, and connects the Indus river valley and the Shyok river valley. It also forms the gateway to the Nubra valley, beyond which lies the Siachen Glacier. A motorable road through the pass was built in 1976, and opened to public motor vehicles in 1988. Maintained by the Border Roads Organisation, the pass is important to India as it is used to carry supplies to the Siachen Glacier. The road is one of the world’s highest motorable roads

Tanveer and Myself at khardungla
At 17,600 Ft above Sea level and health advisory
Blood Oxygen at 67 %, This means time to move on
Road to Nubra from Khardungla
Mountain Road, Khardungla

Khardungla Pass!

Nubra

Known for its orchards, scenic vistas, Bactrian camels and monasteries; Nubra Valley is the Northernmost part of Jammu and Kashmir. Situated about 150 km from Leh, Nubra Valley is known as the Orchard of Ladakh and was originally called Ldumra which meant the valley of flowers.

Surrounded by snowcapped Himalayan ranges, Nubra valley lies sandwiched between Tibet and Kashmir. The view of the valley is picturesque and breathtaking. During winter, the whole valley looks like landscape of the moon (reason for calling Moonland) and in summer full of greenery.

Road to Nubra valley
Confluence of Rivers Nubra valley

Hunder

Nubra Valley in Ladakh holds so many surprises for the visitors. One such surprise awaits you at the Hunder Sand Dunes, located about 10 kilometers from Diskit village. Usually, people think of brown sand & one humped camels when the word desert visits their mind, but a different picture awaits you in Hunder. They are famous because of their white rolling sands, with a river flowing close by, trees & snow-capped mountains in the distance. It is unbelievable, when one thinks of it, that a desert could exist at so high an altitude! Equally surprising is the sight of the double humped Bactrian camels, whose two humps enable them to develop resistance to cold, drought & high altitudes. As the evening approaches, and the barren mountains are covered with the crimson hues of the sun, you wonder how such a place could exist in this mad chaotic world of ours.

As sun sets, the colors that the mountains take are breathtaking and with bactrian camels dotting the landscape its a paradise.

Nubra Camel Ride

The Bactrian or double-humped camel is one of the last remnants of the Silk Road trade in India. These camels, from China and central Asian countries such as Mongolia and Kazakhstan, would carry heavy loads along the rugged terrain of the trade route via Ladakh.

With the closure of the Silk Road, many were left abandoned in Ladakh’s Nubra Valley. The development of modern transport facilities in the remote areas meant the animals weren’t needed anymore. Overlooked and uncared for, their numbers dwindled, pushing them to the brink of extinction in the country.

Since the early 2000s though, the number of Bactrian camels in Nubra has increased—thanks to the residents of the Hunder village in the valley. In 2003, they decided to start camel safaris. As the initiative grew in popularity, the villagers formed the Central Asia Camel Safari, a registered cooperative society in 2009. Other villages in the region, such as Sumoor, Diskit, and Tigger, also jumped on the bandwagon, forming their own camel unions.

Today these safaris, whether along the breathtakingly beautiful Shyok River in the Nubra valley or in areas close to the base camp of the Siachen Glacier, are a big draw with tourists.

Camel Safari
Camel Safari at Hunder
Camels with Diskit Monastery in the background

Day 8-9 : Nubra – Drass

The return leg of our journey started from Hunder to Drass. It was a fantastic drive back and we drove through Kargil and stayed at Drass.

Drass

Dras (also spelt Drass) is a hill station in the Kargil district of the union territory of Ladakh in India. It is on the NH 1 (former name NH 1D before renumbering of all national highways) between Zoji La pass and Kargil town. A tourist hub for its high altitude trekking routes and tourist sites, it is often called “The Gateway to Ladakh”. The government’s official spelling of the town is Drass.

Traditionally, Dras is known as Hem-babs, which means “snow land” with the word “Hem” meaning snow. The average temperature of Dras in winter is -20 degrees Celsius and Dras is the coldest place in India, experiencing an altitude-influenced Continental Mediterranean climate.

Dawn at Drass

Pizza at D’Meadows Drass ( One of the best I ever had )

Day 9-10: Drass- Srinagar

On this day we drove from Drass to Srinagar and also passed through Zojila pass again and had a view of Baltal Base camp and Draupadi Kund

As a child, I often wondered if destinations described in mythical stories were real. One such destination en route Drass from Zoji La, is Draupadi Kund, a magical little lake, surrounded by capped peaks and the misty blue sky. There are many stories attached to this lake. A belief exists that here in Pandaras, a village on the outskirts of Drass is where Draupadi, the daughter of King Panchala in Mahabharata, bathed before finally ascending to the heavens in reach of the higher Himalayas.

You might easily miss this place while you drive, so look out for boards.

Draupadi Kund
Draupadi Kund
Baltal Base camp for Amarnath Yatra

Srinagar Dal lake

Dal is a lake in Srinagar, the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir. It is an urban lake, the second largest lake in Jammu and Kashmir, and the most visited place in Srinagar by tourists and locals.

Dal Lake
Sunset Dal Lake

Day 11 : Srinagar- Bengaluru

We concluded our trip by returning back to Bengaluru and I took some shots of Pir Panjal Range again!

Credits

That’s all, readers. Before I conclude I would like to thank Tanver and this trip would not have been possible without Tanveer, who organized this and I learnt a lot from him.

Also my thanks to Mr Javed ( Javed Bhai ) our driver who was with us for 10 days and also let me drive his car at times.

With Javed and Tanveer

Thanks if you like the blog, you can leave a comment at Home Page

Cheers

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Goutham Ramesh


Comments:

From: Hema Narayanan ( https://www.hemanarayanan.com/ )

Subject: Travel is oxygen…


… to me! It always has been.  It seemed, after reading your travelogue, that it is for you and Tanveer too. I am so in awe with your images.  Having been to Ladakh 5 times,  I never get enough dosage of oxygen,  blame it on the altitude:). I liked the way you measured the O2 level at Khardungla.

Nothing beats a drive towards Leh.  And you both have explored both Kashmir and Ladakh like true  “travellers” and this is the best way to explore a land.  Be it the authentic Khawa brewing tea pot or the bactrian camels at Nubra, I could feel the pulse of your travel.  Well written Logue.

I have one request to both of you – next time,  take me along :-).

A fellow traveler,
– Hema

Shilabhalika’s of Belur

Madanika Series collage

The sculptural details on the walls of the Chennakeshava Temple, Belur is captivating. An aesthete is often drawn to this famous Hoysala temple town.

The graceful statue of Chennakeshava, mesmerising Mohini, the details in the ceiling make the temple interiors most beautiful among the Hoysala temples.

However the  bracket figures, popularly called madanike or Shilabhalike , on the outer walls make me spend hours for their intricate details; They represent beautiful damsels in various moods representing feminine charm and grace, this perhaps are one of the best creations of the Hoysala sculptors of the Belur temple

In this blog I will show most of the madanike or Shilabhalike I captured recently! Hope you will like them as much as I did capturing them.

Darpana Sundari

This is a the most popular all the Shilabalike’s The Darpana Sundari is right at the main entrance of the temple and it is lady holding mirror in her left hand and looking at her beauty in it.

Shuka Bhashini

This is a beauty with a pet parrot talking to it .. Shuka Bhasini means sweet talker.

Playing Holi

This beautiful sculpture has her one hand damaged and missing maybe she was holding a color pump ( Pichkari ) , As per local guide looking at the smaller form on the right , filling color this might have been a figure playing holi .. so in 11-12 century AD maybe playing with colors was predominant in south india also 

Gypsy girl

This Balika has dressed like a gypsy girl as per the hair style and she has a parrot on her arm.

Balike chasing away monkey

This Balika has dressed like a gypsy girl and chasing away the monkey which is pulling her dress , the feet is decorated with anklets and toe ring like all other sculptures.. this one is just shows a very pure feminine posture.

The Huntress

A beautiful Balike aiming het arrow at a bird sitting on the canopy

Dressing her hair.

She is dressing her hair after bath. The attendants are holding flowers and toiletry. This madanika has washed her hair and is squeezing the water out of it. This depiction is seen on a sculpture inside the temple too

Thribhangi Nritya

A lady is dancing stylishly by bending her body into three portions, one from the waist downward, other from the waist to the chest and another upwards. This is said to be the most difficult one to exhibit. This is apparently one of the most difficult postures to achieve in Bharatanatyam

Drummer ( Drum Dance )

She holds in her left hand a drum and she is playing upon it with her right hand.If you look closely , the hand that is holding the drum is inside the strings that hold the membrane .. such mastery over sculpting is worth noticing

A flute player; a flautist.

She is playing on her flute. Her maid on the left side is accompanying her to the tune of the flute with her own flute

Musician, Singer

If you look closely she is singing with her mouth open and there are musicians with instruments accompanying her.

Bewitching Beauty

This is one of the most beautiful shila balika .Her hands and legs are cut out very nicely. Look at the canopy above her left shoulder. You can see a jackfruit and a fly on it ( If zoom , this picture does not do justice to this amazing art ) .

Rudraveena Player

She is a Musician . She is standing holding the instrument (Rudra veena) in her left hand. Her maids are arranging for a concert

A Curly Haired Beauty

She holds a mirror having a handle. She is arranging the curls on the forehead with her right hand finger

Beauty with a Mango

She is plucking a mango with her right hand, unfortunately not much is known, this one is damaged more than others with one hand missing and also her maids are missing.

Beauty with a bow (Archer)

Women of ancient india were skilled warriors as well , this is one sculpture of a warrior beauty with her bow , she must have been a great archer.

Drummer – Male form

This is a drummer looks like a female dressed as male or male drummer with feminine pose and ornaments or a young girl . its anybody’s guess . One thing is sure this is different from other shilabalika and stands out.

Dancer posing with drummers

This is one of many dancer shila balikes , one hand is missing and she is accompanied by drummers.

Dancer , vaishnava pose of feet with drummers

This is one of many dancer shila balikes , Beautiful feminine form with a dance pose where The feet are kept two and a half Talas apart from each other. One of them should be on the ground in the natural posture, the other is lifted and turned sideways with the toes stretched and turned towards the shin, its called vaishnava pose of feet

Like Goddess holding a rod with skull

She is like a Goddess . She holds a rod with skull at the top in her left hand and her head is dressed with a band of skulls.

Beauty with a bow, a hunter with her fellow hunters.

This is one of few shilabalika shown with a bow , here the bow is damaged , but looks more intricate , the arrow in the other hand is also damaged , the accompanying images show a female hunter with a deer kill .. It shows in 12/13 century India women also participated in hunting and were very skilled hunters . The toe is also very delicately posed .. indicating a delicate movement required for hunting … amazing.

Practicing her dance

She is practicing her dance. Her maids are helping her by playing on their instruments.

Bhasma Mohini Dance

The figure illustrates the epic story of God Vishnu who took the form of Mohini

Shilabalika Draping a saree / cloth, getting dressed 

Shilabalika draping a saree or a cloth

Getting dressed by a maid

This looks like she is a queen or princess , who is getting dressed up by a maid.

Gypsy Girl speaking.

She is holding in her left hand palm leaves and and the right hand is in speaking pose.

Shilabalika with a fan ( Mostly )

She is holding in her left hand something that looks like a banana and in her right hand a fan

Shilabalika playing Nagaveena

This madanika is holding a ‘nagaveena’. A veena with one end shaped like a snake.

Shilabalika Proud Lady

She is fully dressed and has put on all sorts of ornaments on her body. She is looking at her beauty in proud through a mirror. This madanika is called Abhimani… the proud one. Symbolizing someone who has a lot of pride in her beauty and is also very conscious of it. The sculpture at the left (at her feet), holds up a mirror but is looking away – kind of telling her ‘woman, reality check’.

Shilabalika Dancing with a imaginary flute 

Dancing with an imaginary flute ; This one has an imaginary flute in her hand. Look at the details on the ear ring , beauty

Shilabalika Dancing with Damaru

Dancing with a damaru in left hand and tala vadya in right hand

Shilabalika with hair in fine knot

She has tied her hair into a fine knot, and she is holding a mast of some kind.

Shilabalika being adorned by a toe-ring

The lady has put on her best dress and ornaments and is ready to go for a dance.This one depicts whose is being adorned by a toe-ring. she is holding onto a vine for balance.

Shilabalika Male form drummer

This is one of the few odd one out with male form , with beard and moustache playing a drum , have a look at the fingers of left hand inside the strings that hold the membrane together .. master sculpture

Shilabalika with taala vadya instrument

She is holding a playing a taala vadya instrument with other musicians accompanying her

The Arch Dancer:

The Arch Dancer, She is dancing to the tune of the fun of her accomplice on both her sides

Navaranga Pillar , Shantaladevi

This is one of the most beautiful shilabalika found inside the temple and this is of Queen Shantala devi , an expert dancer and a very able administrator and an inspiration for all shilabalikas , being a dancer she used to dance in Navaranga inside the temple and she was an Queen.

She is dancing here . See the canopy behind. She is wearing a gem just above the middle of the forehead.

Lady and her pet parrot

This Inside the temple

A lady holds a creeper in her right hand. A parrot is sitting on the fore palm of her left hand. She looks as if she is having a conversation with the parrot. She is having a bangle on her right hand and can MOVE UP AND DOWN ( Can really move !)

Kesha Shrungara:

This Inside the temple
She is wringing her hair to squeeze the water after her bath. You can see the drops of water collected at the tip of her hairs.

Gandarva Dance

This Inside the temple

She wears on her forearm, a good number of bangles, which give an impression of moving to and fro.

Thanks for patiently reading and seeing the images as I humbly bow with a sense of awe and admiration wondering at the architectural excellence of the Hoysala craftsmen! Incredible India and it shows what rich culture we come from.

If you like the blog, you can leave a comment at Home Page

Cheers

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Goutham Ramesh

Photographing Butterflies in Winter

It is a known fact   that bugs and butterflies don’t have the same far-reaching photo appeal as other natural subjects like things that are feathered or furred in savanna of safari.  They are also difficult to spot, and little challenging to shoot; However, in frame-filling close-up, insects are actually amazingly photogenic. I will talk about Butterfly photography in Indian winters*** in this blog. Butterflies are also fantastically beautiful and photogenic and you  can’t help but be seduced by their colour, intricate markings, delicacy and design and they’ve inhabited almost every type of environment and can migrate large distances – and in large numbers too .. so give it a shot!

**** When I say winter , I’m taking about India , especially south India, where you can still find lot of these small butterflies in winter!

Butterfly photography is easily accessible if you are an early riser and  you can spot them in a local garden or a grassland filled with shrubs:

In this blog I will share some of the images I shot this winter and also share some pointers on how to shoot them ( They are just my techniques and not really tips).

Most important thing you should do to shoot a butterfly is to  get up early and photograph them during sunrise especially during winters ; the winter mist makes them sluggish and that helps you to approach them. Ideally you need to photograph butterflies soon after they emerge when they are still in pristine condition and also note that the window of opportunity is brief – mistime your visit, and you may need to wait long  before you can try again.

Stalking is the best technique , This is when you follow (not chase!) butterflies around, waiting for them to rest, feed or bask. When they do, you need to efficiently move into position – just be mindful of the sun’s position; if you cast your shadow across your subject, you will likely frighten it away. 

At work
At work

What all Circus ..we do to get a picture .. from top right in clockwise :

1. Vinod on the ground shooting (PC Vinod)
2. Myself reviewing the image with a portable dark room ( garbage bag )
3. Grass jewel
4. Tawny Coster .
5. Myself on the Ground shooting an image ( PC Vinod)

Depth of field is inherently shallow at higher magnifications when using a macro lens , so there is no leeway for error when focusing. However, if you are using a tripod you can focus via Live View – something I always prefer to do when practical, as I’m able to magnify the live image and manually focus on the butterfly’s head/eyes with good  precision. A tripod also allows you to select a smaller aperture to achieve the depth of field needed, and – if necessary – use a reflector to light up  shadow areas. Alternatively if you use latest cameras  especially mirror less you can use focus peaking as an assisting aid.

Personally, I usually want my subject to stand out boldly against a nicely diffused, out of focus backdrop , with a Bokeh  so I will typically opt for the largest aperture possible (lowest f-stop number in my case its 2.8 ) Doing so also provides a faster shutter speed.

I don’t use flash on butterflies and prefer natural light  and I do use a reflector at times or a LED light for fill in, which is not as bright as flash and still allows me to fill the shadows a bit.

Finally, be patient… very patient. When shooting butterflies, be prepared for moments of complete and utter hair-pulling frustration. You wouldn’t believe the number of times a butterfly will disappear into the distance just at the moment you are about to trigger the shutter! However, thanks to subject knowledge, good technique, perseverance and a little lady luck, you can capture great images.

Image Gallery

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Goutham Ramesh

My Nikon Zfc!

Nikon Zfc

Not all decisions in life have to be rational, my decision for buying “Nikon Zfc” was just that!

In this post, I will share my experience with this beauty and what I personally think of this beauty and share some pictures shot with this beauty.

Nikon says “Classic design meets modern engineering” when they introduce this camera on their website. I personally agree with this, it is the retro design that was the biggest factor for me to buy this camera. Having used old film cameras in the past I just fell in love with the design and all the controls on the top of the camera.

Important Specifications:

Lens mount: Nikon Z mount

Image sensor format: DX (Crop Sensor)

Image sensor type: CMOS

Total pixels: 21.51 million

Effective pixels: 20.9 million

My Take :

Some Images and what I did to shoot these images; Please note I use different kind of lenses and usually prefer lenses with no electronics and completely manual, so this is not a exhaustive review, however i will try to share my experiences with this beautiful camera and lenses I used.

Usage with Kit Lens (with Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR):

The first thing I wanted to do was check the kit lens and this is what I shot with it.

Dwaja Stambha, Lepakshi

Exposure : 1/15 sec at F3.5 ISO 200 Shot at 16mm

First thing i did was check the Kit lens and how it performs at fully open aperture and I was pleased to get a decent shot with good color tones and decent sharpness.

The NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR is the smallest and the lightest lens available for the Nikon Z mount.Sporting an all-plastic construction and plastic mounts, these lenses are specifically designed to be as small and as lightweight as possible, while taking advantage of the short flange distance of the Z mount. At a mere 135 grams, it is impressively light ; in fact, it is the lightest DX / APS-C lens Nikon has produced to date! Optically, the lens is comprised of 9 elements in 7 groups, four of which are aspherical elements, and one of which is an extra-low dispersion element. Similar to other Nikon Z lenses, the 16-50mm VR comes with a stepping motor, which delivers quiet and fast autofocus performance. Nikon incorporated optical image stabilization into the lens, and it is supposed to compensate camera shake by up to 4.5 stops ( Yes 4.5 Stops ) .

Considering all this it produces decent results and a great lens to have with Nikon Zfc especially while shooting architecture and street.

Usage with 7Artizans 7.5mm Fisheye Manual Lens:

I love perspectives from fisheye and sometimes even distortions , it is not everybody’s cup of tea and some hate it. But personally for me it gives some perspectives which i like a lot and deviates from mundane.

Naga Linga

Exposure : 1/250 sec at F8 ISO 100

Framed

Exposure : 1/125 sec at F5.6 ISO 100

Bhringi , Lepakshi

Exposure : 1/5 sec at F2.8 ISO 100

7.5mm f/2.8 from 7Artisans produces rectangular images that cover the entire APS-C format, unlike Circular Fisheye lenses which produce round images within the rectangular field. . This Lens has a solid, high-quality feel in the hand and the focus ring completes its arc in about 1/5 of a turn and the aperture ring is click-free. Exposure is not automatic. Set the camera on Aperture Priority and select a suitable f/stop or go Manual and trust the meter. This lens is manual focus; in fact, it’s manual in everything..

The DOF so extreme that precise focusing isn’t necessary at apertures smaller than f/5.6. Minimum focus is 5.9 inches.

Using this lens on Nikon Zfc was fun and they work very well and if you swear by manual exposure and focus like me you will enjoy this; For people who shoot auto and rely on auto focus this lens is not for you.

Usage with 100mm Laowa Macro + FTZ adapter:

This was the combination that I was always interested in , because I do lot of macro and would love to shoot with Bokeh. You can see my Laowa lens review here.

All these images are shot at 2.8 to get a round bokeh.

Tawny Coster
Tiny Grass Blue
Small Grass Yellow
Oriental Grass Jewel
Common Pierrot
Back Lit , Common Pierrot.
Small Grass Yellow

Using Nikon Zfc with Laowa 100mm and FTZ adapter was fun , but also slightly difficult because of lack of hand grip on the camera ( A simple monopod or a small rig grip will solve this problem) .

I love round bokeh and inorder to get that I need to open the aperture , which gives me a very shallow DOF. Now order to make the picture look good with this setting my focus have to be perfect and also I need to be parallel to the subject, with laowa lens which is manual this is a herculean task , this is where focus peaking on Nikon Zfc helped! What an amazing setting this is.

Focus peaking is a focusing aid in live preview or electronic viewfinders on Nikon Zfc that places a white or coloured highlight on in-focus edges within an image using an edge detect filter.

Now, one may ask why a tool such as this is necessary, with the high-resolution LCDs and EVFs being released today. This is because as great as those screens are and as perfect as your eyesight may be, being able to see what is in focus quickly and clearly can dramatically speed up your work. Also, it is always nice to get another, perhaps more precise, opinion on the technical aspects before you get home and find out that you barely missed the shot you needed.

Peaking also shows up in real time, giving you near-instantaneous feedback as you rack focus through a scene.  Importantly it helps you see what all area is in focus!

How to set focus peaking and use , see the video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auBqCn9RdLo.

Thats it friends , I just wanted to share my experience and my take for detailed review there are many sources on the net.

I bought this camera from https://www.videolinks.com/ , Great service from Anish George and his team, They really went out of their way to get me this camera, especially during these days when most of the equipments are out of stock.

Thanks if you like the blog, you can leave a comment at Home Page

Cheers

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Goutham Ramesh