Photographing Monuments and Sculpture at Hampi During Monsoon

Reflections of Devotion: Hanuman Temple Amidst Monsoon Clouds

A Memorable Drive from Bangalore to Hampi

Traveling to Hampi in the monsoon brings together the excitement of seeing historical sites and sculptures with the delight of preserving their enduring beauty. In Bangalore, Harish, GR Pandith, and me, Goutham Ramesh, embarked on our journey in a Suzuki Jimny, full of anticipation for the scenic journey that lay ahead.

The Road to Hampi

Bangalore and Hampi are about 350 km apart, and depending on traffic and weather, the trip takes six to seven hours. With its reputation for toughness and small size, the Suzuki Jimny turned out to be the ideal car for this trip, particularly given the erratic monsoon weather. The ambiance for our picture adventure was created by the abundant foliage along the path, which was occasionally broken up by showers of rain.

Capturing the Essence of Hampi

A photographer’s dream come true is Hampi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old ruins are given new life during the monsoon season, when the rains highlight the stone’s textures and colors.

The magnificent backdrop created by the cloudy skies highlights the monuments even more.

Images from Hampi

Dawn’s Embrace

The Vijaya Vittala Temple, with its iconic stone chariot illuminated by the first light of dawn and the sun’s rays shining through the gopuram, is a breathtaking sight. This masterpiece of Indian artistry, carved from stone, showcases the extraordinary skill and creativity of medieval Indian artists. It stands as a timeless testament to their greatness, capturing the essence of an era where art and architecture flourished in harmony. The beauty of this scene, bathed in the soft glow of dawn, reflects the enduring legacy of Hampi’s rich cultural heritage.


Warrior and Myth: The Stone Chariot and Yali of Vijaya Vittala Temple

At dawn, the Vijaya Vittala Temple complex in Hampi transforms into a mesmerizing sight, with the stone chariot bathed in the soft morning light. Next to the temple, on the Ranga Mantapa, stands a sculpture of a warrior riding a mythical yali. The yali, a majestic creature combining features of various animals—often with the body of a lion, the head of an elephant, and the tail of a serpent—symbolizes power, protection, and a blend of various strengths. Its fierce and graceful depiction in the sculpture adds a dynamic and mythical element to the scene.


Echoes of Time

With its recognisable stone chariot, the Vijaya Vitthala Temple complex in Hampi serves as a moving reminder of the area’s turbulent past as well as its rich cultural legacy. I wanted to convey a narrative that combined the architectural magnificence of the stone chariot with remnants of a bygone era characterised by both glory and devastation, which is why I included a broken elephant sculpture in the foreground.


The Rhythms of Eternity: Natya Mantapa’s Elegance

In the heart of the Vittala Temple complex lies the Natya Mantapa, an exquisite pavilion where stone seems to breathe life into the art of dance. Its intricately carved pillars are adorned with celestial dancers, musicians, and mythological figures, each depicting stories from the ancient past and capturing the essence of divine rhythms. The delicate craftsmanship showcases the mastery of Vijayanagara artisans, with every chiseled detail revealing an unparalleled dedication to art and spirituality. The Natya Mantapa stands as a testament to a bygone era, where art, devotion, and architecture converged to create a harmonious symphony in stone, inviting all who visit to immerse themselves in its timeless beauty.


Dance of the Divine

In the ancient heart of Hampi’s embrace, where the sacred stones whisper their tales, the demigods dance with celestial grace, their forms etched in eternal detail. Behind them, the stone chariot stands, majestic and timeless in its regal repose, a testament to the hands that shaped this land, where history and art in harmony compose.


Reflections of Devotion: Hanuman Temple Amidst Monsoon Clouds

Perched atop Hemakuta Hill, the Hanuman Temple stands against a backdrop of brooding monsoon clouds, its silhouette striking against the dark sky. The temple, dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman, is a simple yet sacred structure that exudes a sense of spiritual serenity. The rain-soaked terrain surrounding the temple creates small puddles, capturing reflections of the temple and the swirling clouds above.


Reflections of Eternity: Monsoon Dreams Over Hemakuta

When it rains on Hemakuta Hill in Hampi, small puddles of water form and overflow, creating gentle trickles down the hill. The reflections of the clouds in these puddles, combined with the majestic Gopuram of Virupaksha Temple in the background, create a breathtaking scene. The dark monsoon clouds add a dramatic touch, enhancing the beauty and serenity of the landscape.


Monsoon Majesty, Reflections of Hampi’s Heritage

On top of Hemakuta Hills in Hampi, monsoon clouds gather thickly in the sky, their dark, rain-laden masses creating a dramatic backdrop for the ancient landscape. In the foreground, a water puddle forms on the rocky terrain, perfectly reflecting the turbulent sky above. Nearby, a traditional stone Mantapa stands, its intricately carved pillars and timeworn roof echoing the architectural splendor of the region. In the background, the towering gopuram of the Virupaksha Temple rises majestically, a testament to the grandeur of the Vijayanagara Empire.


Majestic Anantha Padmanabha: A Testament to Hampi’s Heritage

On the way to Hemkuta Hill in Hampi, one encounters the lesser-known but magnificent Anantha Padmanabha sculpture, nestled among the rocky terrain. This intricate carving, often overlooked by the usual throngs of tourists, stands as a testament to the rich heritage and artistry of Hampi. With the monsoon clouds rolling in, the dramatic backdrop enhances the beauty and mystique of this ancient site. The nearby Sasvekalu Ganapathi Temple further enriches the historical landscape, making this spot a serene and poignant reminder of the grandeur that once defined the Vijayanagara Empire. Amidst the monsoon’s embrace, this sculpture and its surroundings capture the timeless spirit of Hampi, inviting those who venture off the beaten path to witness its silent splendor.


The Ugra Narasimha statue

The Ugra Narasimha statue in Hampi is a monumental 6.7-meter tall sculpture, depicting the fierce incarnation of Lord Vishnu as Narasimha, the half-lion, half-human deity. Carved out of a single granite boulder, the statue radiates raw power and divine ferocity, with its bulging eyes and majestic mane. Despite being damaged over time, the statue remains a symbol of the Vijayanagara Empire’s artistic brilliance and spiritual devotion. Set against the backdrop of Hampi’s ancient ruins , the Ugra Narasimha exudes a timeless aura, captivating all who behold its magnificence.


Floral Elegance at the Entrance of Hazara Rama Temple

At the entrance of the Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi, a delicate flower embellishes the ancient stone frame, adding a touch of natural elegance to the historic structure. This floral motif, intricately carved by skilled artisans of a bygone era, stands out against the weathered stone, symbolizing the harmonious blend of nature and artistry. As sunlight filters through the temple courtyard, the flower’s details come to life, offering a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage and artistic mastery of the Vijayanagara Empire. This exquisite carving serves as a reminder of the temple’s spiritual significance and the timeless beauty of its architectural design.


The Enchanting Courtyard of Hazara Rama Temple

The courtyard of the Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi is a captivating space that echoes the grandeur and spiritual essence of the Vijayanagara Empire. Surrounded by intricately carved walls that depict scenes from the Ramayana, the courtyard serves as a tranquil sanctuary, inviting visitors to step back in time.


Storytelling in Stone: The Outer Wall of Hazara Rama Temple

The outer wall of the Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi is a magnificent tapestry of stone carvings that brings to life the epic tales of the Ramayana. These intricate reliefs, carved with remarkable precision, depict scenes of divine battles, royal processions, and mythical creatures, showcasing the artistic excellence of the Vijayanagara artisans. Each panel tells a story, inviting visitors to trace the narrative of Rama’s journey through the skillful hands of ancient craftsmen. As light and shadow play across the weathered stone, the carvings reveal their timeless beauty and historical significance, offering a profound glimpse into the spiritual and cultural legacy of the Vijayanagara Empire.


The Octagonal Water Pavilion

The Octagonal Water Pavilion at Hampi stands as a testament to the ingenuity and grandeur of the Vijayanagara Empire. This architectural marvel, with its unique eight-sided design, is set amidst lush greenery, creating a serene oasis that captivates visitors. The pavilion, once part of the royal enclosure, showcases a harmonious blend of form and function, highlighting the empire’s mastery in water management and architectural aesthetics. As sunlight dances on the surface of the ancient water tank, the pavilion reflects the timeless beauty and rich cultural heritage of Hampi, offering a peaceful retreat and a glimpse into the past.


Shiva Temple

On a monsoon day atop Malvantha Raghunatha Hill, the Shiva Temple stands serenely amid the wet rocks . Heav clouds loom overhead, casting a mystical ambiance over the landscape. The rain-soaked ground around the temple forms puddles that perfectly reflect the temple’s majestic structure and the brooding sky above. These reflections create a mirror-like effect, blending the earthly and the divine…


Dawn’s Glow on Hampi’s Cobblestone Pathways

At dawn, the medieval cobblestone roads of Hampi come alive, creating a breathtaking scene as the first light of the day spills over the ancient landscape. These historic pathways, gracefully aged and partially covered with lush grass, whisper tales of bygone eras. The soft morning light casts a golden hue on the stones, highlighting their uneven surfaces and revealing the vibrant greens that weave through the cracks. As the mist lifts, the tranquil ambiance and rich history of this UNESCO World Heritage Site unfold, offering a mesmerizing glimpse into the past amid the serene beauty of the present.


Echoes of Ramayana: Sugreeva’s Cave and the Footprints of Legends

In the heart of Hampi lies Sugreeva’s Cave, a place steeped in legend and history. This cave is believed to be where Sugreeva, the exiled Vanara king, sought refuge. Hampi itself is often identified as the ancient kingdom of Kishkinda, the realm of the Vanaras from the epic Ramayana. Near Sugreeva’s Cave, visitors can find intriguing sculptures of two feet, thought to commemorate the presence of Rama and Lakshmana during their quest to rescue Sita. These footprints, etched in stone, serve as a poignant reminder of the timeless tales and heroic figures that have shaped the cultural and spiritual landscape of this enchanting region.


Monsoon’s Embrace: The Linga by the Tungabhadra River:

Carved on the banks of the Tungabhadra River, the Linga stands amidst the lively dance of monsoon breezes that ripple across the water. The river, touched by the refreshing gusts, swirls energetically around the ancient sculpture, creating a dynamic interplay of light and movement. With Rushya Mukha Hill rising majestically in the background, this scene becomes a vivid reflection of Hampi’s timeless beauty and spiritual depth. The combination of the lively river and the serene backdrop offers a profound sense of peace and connection, inviting contemplation amid the vibrant energies of nature.


A Bonus Trip to Daroji Bear Sanctuary

On our first day, we took a diversion to the Daroji Bear Sanctuary after the first session in Hampi. The Indian sloth bear resides in this sanctuary, which is roughly 15 kilometers from Hampi. The 82 square-kilometer Daroji Bear Sanctuary was created in 1994 and offers a safe refuge for bears like these as well as other animals like hyenas, leopards, and numerous bird species.

We had the good fortune to see several sloth bears searching for food with their babies while we were there. During the monsoon, the sanctuary’s lush, green scenery was a joy to behold and offered fantastic chances for wildlife photography. The informed staff at the sanctuary assisted us in learning more about the behavior and conservation activities pertaining to these amazing animals.

Images from Daroji

A Heartwarming Encounter with a Sloth Bear Family
Sloth Bear and its precious cargo

In the serene wilderness, we were fortunate to witness an enchanting sight: a sloth bear with her playful cubs clinging to her back as they navigated the rocky terrain and forest floor with grace and curiosity. The mother bear, ever watchful and protective, carried her cubs over the uneven ground, their tiny paws gently wrapped around her fur. This unforgettable moment,epitomized the raw beauty and tender bond of wildlife in their natural habitat.


The female Painted Spurfowl

The female Painted Spurfowl (Galloperdix lunulata) is an understated beauty, adorned with earthy browns and subtle patterns that provide excellent camouflage in her natural habitat. Unlike the more vividly colored males, the female’s plumage consists of muted shades and intricate markings that blend seamlessly with the rocky hillsides, dry deciduous forests, and scrublands where she resides. These ground-dwelling birds are adept foragers, searching for seeds, insects, and small invertebrates among the underbrush. The female’s elusive nature and preference for dense cover make her a rewarding but challenging find for birdwatchers and photographers. Her quiet elegance and vital role in the ecosystem highlight the intricate balance of biodiversity in the Indian subcontinent.


Tips for Monsoon Photography in Hampi

  1. Carry Weather Protection: Ensure your camera and lenses are well-protected from the rain. A weather-sealed camera or protective cover can be very useful.
  2. Use a tripod: The low light conditions during the monsoon can result in longer exposure times. A tripod helps keep your shots sharp. However, it’s important to note that using a tripod within the protected monuments requires permission from the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Make sure to obtain the necessary permits beforehand or be ready to use higher ISO.
  3. Explore Different Perspectives: Wet surfaces can create beautiful reflections. Look for puddles and wet stones to add a unique perspective to your shots.
  4. Capture the Mood: The monsoon season adds a mystical aura to Hampi. Embrace the moody skies and the interplay of light and shadows.

A Journey to Remember

There was more to our monsoon vacation to Hampi than merely taking pictures. Exploring the rich history and architecture of this historic city was like taking a trip back in time. From the breathtaking trip in our Suzuki Jimny to the breathtaking views of Hampi’s monuments and sculptures, Harish, GR Pandith, and I relished every second of it. The addition of a layer of enchantment by the monsoon made our recollections and photos much more spectacular.

Whether you love history or photography, a trip to Hampi in the monsoon season is sure to enthrall and inspire you.

Thank you if you like the blog, You can leave a comment on Home  page.

Cheers ,

Goutham Ramesh

Shilabhalika’s of Belur

Madanika Series collage

The sculptural details on the walls of the Chennakeshava Temple, Belur is captivating. An aesthete is often drawn to this famous Hoysala temple town.

The graceful statue of Chennakeshava, mesmerising Mohini, the details in the ceiling make the temple interiors most beautiful among the Hoysala temples.

However the  bracket figures, popularly called madanike or Shilabhalike , on the outer walls make me spend hours for their intricate details; They represent beautiful damsels in various moods representing feminine charm and grace, this perhaps are one of the best creations of the Hoysala sculptors of the Belur temple

In this blog I will show most of the madanike or Shilabhalike I captured recently! Hope you will like them as much as I did capturing them.

Darpana Sundari

This is a the most popular all the Shilabalike’s The Darpana Sundari is right at the main entrance of the temple and it is lady holding mirror in her left hand and looking at her beauty in it.

Shuka Bhashini

This is a beauty with a pet parrot talking to it .. Shuka Bhasini means sweet talker.

Playing Holi

This beautiful sculpture has her one hand damaged and missing maybe she was holding a color pump ( Pichkari ) , As per local guide looking at the smaller form on the right , filling color this might have been a figure playing holi .. so in 11-12 century AD maybe playing with colors was predominant in south india also 

Gypsy girl

This Balika has dressed like a gypsy girl as per the hair style and she has a parrot on her arm.

Balike chasing away monkey

This Balika has dressed like a gypsy girl and chasing away the monkey which is pulling her dress , the feet is decorated with anklets and toe ring like all other sculptures.. this one is just shows a very pure feminine posture.

The Huntress

A beautiful Balike aiming het arrow at a bird sitting on the canopy

Dressing her hair.

She is dressing her hair after bath. The attendants are holding flowers and toiletry. This madanika has washed her hair and is squeezing the water out of it. This depiction is seen on a sculpture inside the temple too

Thribhangi Nritya

A lady is dancing stylishly by bending her body into three portions, one from the waist downward, other from the waist to the chest and another upwards. This is said to be the most difficult one to exhibit. This is apparently one of the most difficult postures to achieve in Bharatanatyam

Drummer ( Drum Dance )

She holds in her left hand a drum and she is playing upon it with her right hand.If you look closely , the hand that is holding the drum is inside the strings that hold the membrane .. such mastery over sculpting is worth noticing

A flute player; a flautist.

She is playing on her flute. Her maid on the left side is accompanying her to the tune of the flute with her own flute

Musician, Singer

If you look closely she is singing with her mouth open and there are musicians with instruments accompanying her.

Bewitching Beauty

This is one of the most beautiful shila balika .Her hands and legs are cut out very nicely. Look at the canopy above her left shoulder. You can see a jackfruit and a fly on it ( If zoom , this picture does not do justice to this amazing art ) .

Rudraveena Player

She is a Musician . She is standing holding the instrument (Rudra veena) in her left hand. Her maids are arranging for a concert

A Curly Haired Beauty

She holds a mirror having a handle. She is arranging the curls on the forehead with her right hand finger

Beauty with a Mango

She is plucking a mango with her right hand, unfortunately not much is known, this one is damaged more than others with one hand missing and also her maids are missing.

Beauty with a bow (Archer)

Women of ancient india were skilled warriors as well , this is one sculpture of a warrior beauty with her bow , she must have been a great archer.

Drummer – Male form

This is a drummer looks like a female dressed as male or male drummer with feminine pose and ornaments or a young girl . its anybody’s guess . One thing is sure this is different from other shilabalika and stands out.

Dancer posing with drummers

This is one of many dancer shila balikes , one hand is missing and she is accompanied by drummers.

Dancer , vaishnava pose of feet with drummers

This is one of many dancer shila balikes , Beautiful feminine form with a dance pose where The feet are kept two and a half Talas apart from each other. One of them should be on the ground in the natural posture, the other is lifted and turned sideways with the toes stretched and turned towards the shin, its called vaishnava pose of feet

Like Goddess holding a rod with skull

She is like a Goddess . She holds a rod with skull at the top in her left hand and her head is dressed with a band of skulls.

Beauty with a bow, a hunter with her fellow hunters.

This is one of few shilabalika shown with a bow , here the bow is damaged , but looks more intricate , the arrow in the other hand is also damaged , the accompanying images show a female hunter with a deer kill .. It shows in 12/13 century India women also participated in hunting and were very skilled hunters . The toe is also very delicately posed .. indicating a delicate movement required for hunting … amazing.

Practicing her dance

She is practicing her dance. Her maids are helping her by playing on their instruments.

Bhasma Mohini Dance

The figure illustrates the epic story of God Vishnu who took the form of Mohini

Shilabalika Draping a saree / cloth, getting dressed 

Shilabalika draping a saree or a cloth

Getting dressed by a maid

This looks like she is a queen or princess , who is getting dressed up by a maid.

Gypsy Girl speaking.

She is holding in her left hand palm leaves and and the right hand is in speaking pose.

Shilabalika with a fan ( Mostly )

She is holding in her left hand something that looks like a banana and in her right hand a fan

Shilabalika playing Nagaveena

This madanika is holding a ‘nagaveena’. A veena with one end shaped like a snake.

Shilabalika Proud Lady

She is fully dressed and has put on all sorts of ornaments on her body. She is looking at her beauty in proud through a mirror. This madanika is called Abhimani… the proud one. Symbolizing someone who has a lot of pride in her beauty and is also very conscious of it. The sculpture at the left (at her feet), holds up a mirror but is looking away – kind of telling her ‘woman, reality check’.

Shilabalika Dancing with a imaginary flute 

Dancing with an imaginary flute ; This one has an imaginary flute in her hand. Look at the details on the ear ring , beauty

Shilabalika Dancing with Damaru

Dancing with a damaru in left hand and tala vadya in right hand

Shilabalika with hair in fine knot

She has tied her hair into a fine knot, and she is holding a mast of some kind.

Shilabalika being adorned by a toe-ring

The lady has put on her best dress and ornaments and is ready to go for a dance.This one depicts whose is being adorned by a toe-ring. she is holding onto a vine for balance.

Shilabalika Male form drummer

This is one of the few odd one out with male form , with beard and moustache playing a drum , have a look at the fingers of left hand inside the strings that hold the membrane together .. master sculpture

Shilabalika with taala vadya instrument

She is holding a playing a taala vadya instrument with other musicians accompanying her

The Arch Dancer:

The Arch Dancer, She is dancing to the tune of the fun of her accomplice on both her sides

Navaranga Pillar , Shantaladevi

This is one of the most beautiful shilabalika found inside the temple and this is of Queen Shantala devi , an expert dancer and a very able administrator and an inspiration for all shilabalikas , being a dancer she used to dance in Navaranga inside the temple and she was an Queen.

She is dancing here . See the canopy behind. She is wearing a gem just above the middle of the forehead.

Lady and her pet parrot

This Inside the temple

A lady holds a creeper in her right hand. A parrot is sitting on the fore palm of her left hand. She looks as if she is having a conversation with the parrot. She is having a bangle on her right hand and can MOVE UP AND DOWN ( Can really move !)

Kesha Shrungara:

This Inside the temple
She is wringing her hair to squeeze the water after her bath. You can see the drops of water collected at the tip of her hairs.

Gandarva Dance

This Inside the temple

She wears on her forearm, a good number of bangles, which give an impression of moving to and fro.

Thanks for patiently reading and seeing the images as I humbly bow with a sense of awe and admiration wondering at the architectural excellence of the Hoysala craftsmen! Incredible India and it shows what rich culture we come from.

If you like the blog, you can leave a comment at Home Page

Cheers

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Goutham Ramesh

Hoysalas skilled artists of India

Hoysalas (1026 CE – 1343 CE) were a dynasty that ruled present day Karnataka, parts of Tamil Nadu and south-western Telangana; Their contribution to art especially sculpture and temple architecture is unparalleled! Their era was marked by illustrious achievements in art, architecture, and culture. The nucleus of this activity lay in the present-day Hassan district of Karnataka, India. Their  intention of surpassing the Western Chalukyan Empire (973 CE – 1189 CE) in its own sphere provided further impetus for excelling in the field of architecture.

History of the Hoysala Empire

The Hoysala rulers began as local chieftains in the hills of Western Ghats. With time, their fortune began to prosper and within a few decades they achieved the status of a powerful feudatory under Western Chalukyan Emperors. Early in the history of Hoysala dynasty, the capital of their nascent dominion was shifted from the hills of Western Ghats to Belur. The military conquests of Vishnuvardhan (1108 CE – 1152 CE) against the neighboring Chola Empire (c. 300 BCE – 1279 CE) in 1116 CE marks the first major development in the history of these dynasts. A new age ushered with Vishnuvardhan as he built the Chennakesava temple (1117 CE) in Belur to celebrate this victory; furthermore, he decided to shift the capital almost 20 km to the east to Halebidu or Halebid.

The Hoysalas gained their political freedom in 1192 during the reign of Veera Ballala II (1173 CE – 1220 CE). They soon became a leading power in Southern India and enjoyed territorial supremacy and economic well-being over the next century or so. At its height, the empire consisted of present-day Karnataka, parts of Tamil Nadu and south-western Telangana. However, invasions of sultanates from Delhi and Madurai, from 1311 CE onwards, proved fatal to the then reigning monarch, Veera Ballala III (1292 CE – 1343 CE). He eventually succumbed to these repeated onslaughts in 1343 CE.

I have tried to capture some of their architectural marvels in the following images, I would like to call this as poetry in stone.

Poetry in stone

Credits :

https://www.worldhistory.org/article/898/hoysala-architecture/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoysala_architecture

Cheers,

Goutham Ramesh