The Timeless Tapestry of Hoysala Sculptures: Stories Etched in Stone

The Hoysala temples, located in the centre of Karnataka, are silent storytellers. The elaborate sculptures that adorn their exterior walls tell timeless and beautiful tales. These walls are more than just stone constructions; they are canvases where art and devotion coexist and where mythology, gods, and the human soul all dance through the ages.

Walls as Canvases of Devotion

The exterior walls of the Hoysalas’ temples were much more than just defensive structures. They served as a sacrifice, a stone-carved dedication, and a tapestry of spiritual symbols and holy myths that adorn and protect the temples. Every corner speaks a legend, and every wall recounts a tale. Thus, the Hoysalas left behind more than just temples in their intricate sculptures; they also bequeathed a legacy that will inspire future generations with its message of faith and inventiveness. In this blog, I will share a small set of the sculptures from these walls!

Narayana Seated on Adishesha: Divine Balance and Poise, : Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholallu

The sculpture of Narayana seated on the seven-headed Adishesha at Hosaholalu radiates a sense of calm authority. Captured with a Nikon 24mm tilt-shift lens using the tilt functionality, the shot emphasizes the depth and detail of Narayana’s divine posture. Narayana sits gracefully, with one leg resting on the ground and the other comfortably positioned on the coiled body of the divine serpent. His left hand rests gently on his knee, adding a relaxed yet powerful posture of authority to his form.

Shot with Nikon 24mm Tilt Shift, The tilt-shift effect enhances Narayana’s balanced poise, isolating the intricate sculpture against the background and drawing the viewer’s focus to the sculptural details. This composition captures Narayana’s balanced poise, embodying his role as the preserver. The sculpture stands as a testament to the devotion and skill of the artisans who brought this vision of divinity to life, transforming stone into a symbol of cosmic order and serenity.

“Lakshmi Narasimha: Divine Grace at Hosaholalu” : Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholallu

The sculpture of Lakshmi Narasimha at Hosaholalu captures a scene of both gentleness and strength. Goddess Lakshmi sits gracefully on the lap of Lord Narasimha, her serene expression contrasting with Narasimha’s powerful presence. The intricacy of Lakshmi’s delicate features and Narasimha’s fierce, protective form symbolizes their harmonious union, embodying both compassion and valor.

Shot with a Nikon 24mm tilt-shift lens using the tilt functionality, the image draws focus to the divine duo, enhancing their three-dimensional relief and depth against the intricately carved stone backdrop. This perspective sharpens the details—the finely carved jewelry adorning Lakshmi, the lion-like intensity in Narasimha’s posture, and the layers of symbolism in every curve. The tilt effect allows for a unique emphasis on their expressions and fine craftsmanship, celebrating the beauty and complexity that Hoysala artisans sculpted into each detail.

Airavata and Indra: A Majestic Union in Stone : Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholallu

The sculpture of Airavata carrying Indra is a breathtaking representation of divine power and grace. Airavata, the mythical white elephant is carved with majestic details—its muscular frame adorned with ornamental motifs, capturing the grandeur and elegance of this celestial creature. The intricacies of the adornments around its body highlight the skill of the ancient craftsmen.

Seated atop Airavata is Indra, the king of the gods, holding his vajra (thunderbolt) with a regal posture. His divine armor and robes are carved with precision, flowing gracefully as if caught in a celestial breeze. Indra’s expression, one of authority and calm, signifies his role as the protector of the heavens. The union of Airavata and Indra in this sculpture symbolizes strength and leadership, portraying the bond between a god and his vahana (vehicle).

This depiction, with its attention to fine detail and balance, showcases the artistic excellence of Indian sculptors from the era, capturing the divine connection between the deity and his celestial mount.

Lakshmi Narayana: Divine Grace and Balance in Stone Lakshmi Narayana: Divine Grace and Balance in Stone

The sculpture of Lakshmi Narayana captures a scene of divine harmony and elegance, where Lakshmi sits gracefully on the lap of Narayana (Vishnu). The depiction showcases a moment of celestial unity, with Lakshmi resting comfortably, her serene expression mirroring the calm and composed demeanor of Narayana. Her feet are delicately placed on a lotus, which is sculpted to appear gently bent, as if bowing under the weight of her divinity, emphasizing the balance between grace and power.

Narayana is carved in a protective and loving posture, his hand supporting Lakshmi while his other arm rests confidently. The intricate details of their attire, from the delicate jewelry to the flowing garments, display the artistry of ancient Indian sculptors. Lakshmi’s crown is adorned with fine floral patterns, while Narayana’s crown is regal, reflecting his status as the preserver.

Gaja Lakshmi Narayana: The Divine Couple with the Royal Elephant : Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholallu

The sculpture of Gaja Lakshmi Narayana depicts the divine union of Lakshmi and Narayana with an added touch of grandeur and symbolism. In this magnificent carving, Lakshmi is seated on Narayana’s lap, her feet resting gracefully on an elephant (Gaja). The elephant, a symbol of prosperity and strength, supports the goddess with a gentle posture.

Narayana, seated in a protective and commanding position, gazes ahead with a composed and serene expression, while his arm holds Lakshmi gently. The jewelry on both deities—cascading necklaces, armlets, and intricately detailed crowns—demonstrates the fine artistry of the sculptors, capturing the elegance and divinity of the pair

Garuda’s Divine Flight: Narayana and Lakshmi Carving: Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholallu

In this exquisite sculpture from 1250 AD, Garuda, the mighty bird vehicle, carries Narayana with grace and strength. Seated on Narayana’s lap is the Goddess Lakshmi, radiating divine serenity. The intricate details of their jewelry catch the eye—delicate chains, earrings, and armlets, all meticulously carved into the stone, showcase the brilliance of Indian artisans from this era. Each piece of jewelry, whether it’s the layered necklaces or the ornamental crowns, reveals a mastery of craftsmanship, making the figures appear almost lifelike despite being etched into solid stone.

The artist’s ability to bring out such fine detail in the jewelry, clothing, and expressions of the deities reflects the artistic and spiritual sophistication of the period. This sculpture is not just a portrayal of divinity but also a celebration of the skill and devotion that went into temple art, leaving a timeless legacy of Hoysala brilliance.

Divine Artistry: The Dancing God of Somnathapura : Channakesava Temple , Somnatapura

No photograph can truly do justice to the exquisitely carved dancing god at Somnathapura, a masterpiece that was created around 1268 AD, over 750 years ago. The details are breathtaking, with even the finest pieces of jewelry intricately sculpted into the stone. Each curve and contour brings the divine figure to life, showcasing the incredible skill and craftsmanship of our Indian ancestors. This stunning piece of art leaves one in awe, wondering about the dedication and talent that went into its creation.

Somnathapura is not just a temple; it’s a testament to India’s rich cultural heritage and artistic brilliance. For anyone passionate about art, history, or spirituality, this place is a must-visit. It stands as a heaven for art lovers, where every stone tells a story of devotion and artistic mastery.

intricate Cloth Designs of Hoysala Sculptures, Lakshmi Narashimha temple , Nuggehalli

The intricate cloth designs carved by the Hoysala artisans at the Nuggehalli Temple glorify the opulence and elegance of 12th-century India. Each garment sculpted in stone appears to flow naturally over the figures, showcasing an array of floral motifs, geometric patterns, and ornate weaves. The borders of these garments are adorned with symmetrical rows of tiny beaded patterns, giving the appearance of embroidery that seems to defy the rigidity of stone.

The artisans paid meticulous attention to every fold and pleat, creating a sense of movement and texture that breathes life into the stone. The delicate engravings along the borders and the layered textures of the clothing demonstrate the weavers’ art transmuted into stone, making it appear as if these celestial beings are draped in rich fabrics. The interplay of light and shadow on these carvings emphasizes the depth and three-dimensional quality of the designs, making the garments look almost tangible.

These exquisite carvings stand as a tribute to the grandeur of Hoysala artistry and the cultural richness of the era. By immortalizing the textiles of 12th-century India in stone, the sculptures at Nuggehalli glorify the kingdom’s artistic heritage and mastery, offering a timeless representation of divine beauty and elegance.

Mahishasura Mardini and the Graceful Apsara: Nuggehalli Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Temple

The 12th-century AD sculpture of Mahishasura Mardini (Durga) at the Nuggehalli Hoysala Temple is a stunning depiction of divine power. Durga is shown stabbing the demon Mahishasura with her trident in one hand, while the other hand holds a sword with the lifeless body of a foe hanging from its tip. Her feet are firmly pressed against the bull that Mahishasura is riding, asserting her dominance and triumph over evil. Every detail of her fierce expression and dynamic stance captures the intensity of this divine confrontation.

In sharp contrast, the adjacent sculpture of the Apsara exudes an aura of serenity and elegance. She stands in a relaxed pose, completely devoid of any clothing or ornaments, her form flowing naturally as she plays with a delicate creeper in her hands. The lack of adornment draws attention to her ethereal beauty and graceful curves, symbolizing the gentle side of divine femininity.

This juxtaposition of Durga’s formidable power with the Apsara’s tranquil beauty exemplifies the duality of divine femininity, captured masterfully by the Hoysala artisans at Nuggehalli.

Legacy of Art and Spirit

“The sculptures of Hoysala temples are more than relics; they are reminders. They remind us of an age when art was as much a part of worship as prayer, when stone was not merely hewn but transformed into something that could transcend time. Each carving, every motif, is a chapter in a story that the Hoysala artisans crafted to outlast even the temples themselves, offering us today a window into their world, a glimpse of life captured in the dance of shadow and light across stone.

In the presence of these sculptures, we are reminded that art, when made with devotion, lives on forever. The Hoysala walls stand strong, not just as ancient structures but as immortal testaments to the spirit of a people who saw beauty in every inch of stone and who carved their dreams and their gods into the heart of the temple walls.”

if you like the blog, you can leave a comment on Home page.

Cheers ,

Goutham Ramesh

11/09/202426/10/2024

Stone Stories of Lepakshi: A Photographer’s Perspective

Different Perspective: Nagalinga and the Corridor at Lepakshi

“Lepakshi Temple, a gem of the Vijayanagara Empire, stands as a masterpiece of ancient Indian architecture and artistry. I had the chance to visit this place a couple of times recently, accompanied by young minds and later with senior photographer GR Pandith. Every pillar, sculpture, and carving within its sacred walls holds centuries of history and devotion. Through my lens, I’ve sought to capture the timeless beauty of this temple—its intricate stonework, the grandeur of the Nagalinga, and the spiritual essence that resonates in every corner. Join me as I share the visual stories etched into the heart of Lepakshi’s architectural marvel.”

Stone Stories

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

Shooting the Nagalinga at Lepakshi presents a unique opportunity to break away from traditional compositions, and incorporating the corridor into the frame is a refreshing way to do just that. In this particular composition, captured with the precision of the Nikon 24mm PCE tilt-shift lens, the grandeur of the Nagalinga is beautifully complemented by the linear perspective of the corridor. The lens’s ability to maintain perfect alignment and eliminate distortion adds to the clarity and impact of the scene, creating a dynamic interplay between the sacred sculpture and the surrounding architecture.

The corridor, with its rhythmic sequence of pillars and shadows, adds depth and context, guiding the viewer’s eye towards the Nagalinga while also offering a sense of continuity within the temple complex. This approach not only highlights the Nagalinga as a focal point but also integrates it into the broader narrative of the temple’s architecture, making the composition visually striking and richly layered with meaning.

This is one of those compositions where breaking the monotony of traditional views brings a fresh and engaging perspective to a revered subject, offering a new way to appreciate the timeless beauty of Lepakshi.

Eternal Grace: Lepakshi Nagalinga and Sculpted Pillar

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE

In this composition, the beautifully sculpted pillar takes the foreground, framing the majestic Lepakshi Nagalinga that stands behind it. The Nikon 24mm PCE lens, renowned for its zero distortion, captures the scene with exceptional clarity, allowing the intricate carvings of the pillar to stand out while still maintaining the grandeur of the Nagalinga in the background. The alignment of the pillar and the Nagalinga creates a harmonious balance, showcasing the timeless craftsmanship of ancient India. The lens’s precision highlights every detail, making the scene a testament to the enduring beauty of these architectural wonders.

Reflections of History: The Unfinished/Ruins Kalyana Mantapa

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE

The entrance of the unfinished or runis Kalyana Mantapa at Lepakshi, captured in the reflection of a puddle of water, offers a hauntingly beautiful glimpse into the past. The partially completed structure, with its towering pillars and intricate carvings, appears almost ghostly in the still water, creating a mirror image that blurs the lines between reality and reflection. The delicate details of the entrance, carved with scenes from mythology and adorned with floral patterns, are perfectly echoed in the water, adding a sense of symmetry and balance to the scene. The unfinished nature of the Mantapa, juxtaposed with its reflection, symbolizes the timelessness of the temple’s architecture, where even incomplete structures evoke a sense of grandeur and mystery. This fleeting reflection, captured after a rain shower, serves as a poignant reminder of the impermanence of life and the enduring beauty of art.

Divine Perspective: Ganesha and the Ancient Entrance of Kalyana Mantapa at Lepakshi

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

In the sacred space of theTemple, the Ganesha idol, sculpted directly into the rock, commands a serene presence. This view captures not only the deity but also the historical remnants of a grand entrance to the Kalyana Mantapa, now framed by the enduring beauty of the temple’s architecture.

The stone frame, which once served as the entrance to the Kalyana Mantapa, stands in silent testimony to the temple’s bygone splendor. Positioned behind the rock-carved Ganesha, the frame adds depth and context to the scene, drawing the viewer’s eye through the layers of architectural history. The interplay between the Ganesha sculpture and the ancient entrance highlights the artistic and spiritual legacy of Lepakshi.

This perspective emphasizes the intricate relationship between the natural rock formations and the crafted architectural elements, creating a harmonious blend of the sacred and the historical. The image serves as a poignant reminder of the temple’s timeless significance, where each element, from the Ganesha sculpture to the weathered entrance frame, contributes to the narrative of this revered site.

Echoes of Divinity: The Pillars of Lepakshi’s Kalyana Mantapa

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

The pillars of Kalyana Mantapa stand as resilient testaments to the artistry and devotion of a bygone era, even as the roof lies in ruins. Each pillar is adorned with intricate sculptures of gods, capturing moments of divine mythology frozen in stone. The figures are carved with exquisite detail, from the expressions on the faces of the deities to the ornate adornments they wear. Though the roof has fallen, these pillars continue to exude a sense of sacredness and grandeur, their carvings offering glimpses into the spiritual and cultural richness of the time. The ruins, with their mix of decay and divine imagery, create a powerful contrast, reminding us of the impermanence of structures yet the enduring legacy of the art and faith they embody.

Stories in Stone: Relief Sculptures on Lepakshi Temple’s Outer Corridors

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

The relief sculptures on the pillars in the corridors around the outer wall of the Temple are a marvel of ancient artistry, each one telling a unique story from the rich tapestry of Hindu mythology. Carved with meticulous precision, these sculptures depict gods, goddesses, celestial beings, animals, and mythical creatures, all intricately intertwined in scenes of devotion, battle, and celebration. The figures, though rendered in stone, convey a sense of movement and life, with their detailed expressions and dynamic poses. The craftsmanship of these reliefs showcases the skill and imagination of the Vijayanagara artisans, who transformed the stone pillars into narrative canvases. As you walk through these corridors, the relief sculptures invite you to immerse yourself in the spiritual and cultural heritage they represent, offering a timeless connection to the stories and beliefs that shaped this sacred space.

Architectural Splendor: The Pillared Corridor of Lepakshi’s Outer Wall

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

The pillared corridor of the outer wall enclosure at Temple is a testament to the architectural brilliance of the Vijayanagara period. These corridors, lined with intricately carved pillars, stretch endlessly, creating a rhythmic pattern of light and shadow that enhances the temple’s serene ambiance. Each pillar is adorned with detailed reliefs depicting deities, mythical creatures, and floral motifs, showcasing the artisans’ dedication to their craft.

Photographing this corridor with the Nikon 24mm PCE tilt-shift lens is a transformative experience. The lens’s ability to eliminate distortion ensures that the pillars remain perfectly vertical, preserving the symmetry and balance of the scene. In architectural photography, where precision is paramount, the 24mm PCE lens is a boon, capturing the true essence of the structure without compromising on the integrity of the lines or the intricate details. The result is an image that faithfully represents the grandeur of the corridor, allowing the viewer to appreciate the full scale and beauty of this historic space.

Divine Artistry: Sages and Demigods on the Outer Pillars of Lepakshi’s Kalyana Mantapa

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

The outer pillars of the unfinished Kalyana Mantapa are adorned with intricate sculptures of sages and demigods, each figure meticulously carved with expressions of devotion, wisdom, and spiritual power. These pillars, though part of an incomplete structure, stand as magnificent examples of the artistry and religious fervor that define the temple complex.

These sculptures not only enhance the architectural beauty of the Kalyana Mantapa but also serve as a testament to the rich spiritual and cultural heritage of Lepakshi, making it a must-visit site for anyone interested in India’s ancient traditions.

Enduring Devotion: The Stone Tulasi Pot of Lepakshi

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

In the hallowed grounds of the temple amidst the temple’s grand architecture and intricate sculptures, stands a centuries-old Tulasi pot, sculpted entirely out of stone. This ancient artifact, though simple in its form, embodies the timeless devotion and spiritual practices that have been an integral part of this sacred site for generations.

The Tulasi pot, traditionally used to house the holy basil plant revered in Hinduism, is carved with a delicate precision that highlights the artisans’ respect for both nature and spirituality. Its stone surface has weathered the passage of time, yet it retains a sense of grace and purity. The pot’s design features subtle floral motifs and geometric patterns that are characteristic of the Vijayanagara style, blending seamlessly with the temple’s overall aesthetic.

This stone Tulasi pot is not merely a vessel; it is a symbol of the enduring faith and the cultural heritage that continues to thrive at Lepakshi. As it stands resilient through the centuries, it serves as a poignant reminder of the connection between the divine and the natural world, cherished in this historic temple complex.

Stone Legacy: The Carved Food Thali of Lepaksh

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

In the ancient temple complex ,nestled among the rocks adjacent to the main temple wall and near the Hanuman Mantapa, lies a unique and fascinating artifact—a food thali carved directly into the stone. This thali, meticulously chiseled out of the natural rock surface, is an extraordinary example of the practical artistry that characterizes the site.

The thali features distinct sections, each carefully shaped to resemble the compartments of a traditional Indian meal plate, where different food items would be served. The craftsmanship is remarkable, with smooth, rounded edges and a perfectly proportioned layout, reflecting the skill and attention to detail of the artisans who created it. This stone-carved thali, seemingly simple yet deeply symbolic, offers a glimpse into the daily life and rituals of the past, where even the act of eating was elevated to an art form.

Located in a serene and somewhat hidden spot, this carving invites reflection on the blending of the sacred and the everyday in the cultural heritage of Lepakshi. It stands as a testament to the ingenuity and creativity of the people who once inhabited and worshiped in this historic site.

Intricate Artistry: The Drummer Sculpture at Lepakshi

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE

The sculpture of a drummer is a masterpiece of delicate craftsmanship. Carved from stone, the drummer’s hand is intricately positioned inside the strings of the drum, a detail so fine that it appears almost lifelike. The precision with which the strings and the hand are rendered is a testament to the extraordinary skill of the artisans who brought this sculpture to life. The Nikon 24mm PCE lens captures this intricate detail with perfect clarity, highlighting the depth and dimension of the carving without any distortion.

This sculpture not only showcases the artistic brilliance of the Vijayanagara period but also evokes the rhythm and music that would have once filled the temple complex. The delicate carving of the hand within the drum strings adds a dynamic element to the piece, making it seem as though the drummer might start playing at any moment, bringing the stone to life.

Camera: Nikon Zfc ; Lens : 7 Artisans 7.5 mm Fisheye

The inscriptions on the walls are a stunning blend of artistry and history, featuring elegant Kannada and Telugu scripts. These beautifully carved texts detail the temple’s rich heritage, from royal donations to religious hymns, surrounded by intricate floral and geometric designs. They offer a glimpse into the cultural and historical legacy of the Vijayanagara Empire, preserved with remarkable precision and detail.

“As I wandered through the corridors and stood before the magnificent sculptures of Lepakshi Temple, I realized that this place is more than just a historical monument—it is a canvas of devotion and artistry, frozen in time. Each photograph I’ve shared is a small glimpse into the temple’s grandeur, a tribute to the incredible craftsmanship of the Vijayanagara era. I hope these images inspire you to explore the rich cultural heritage that lives on in the stones of Lepakshi, where history and art are woven together in an eternal dance.”

if you like the blog, you can leave a comment on Home page.

Cheers ,

Goutham Ramesh

25/07/202425/07/2024

Photographing Monuments and Sculpture at Hampi During Monsoon

Reflections of Devotion: Hanuman Temple Amidst Monsoon Clouds

A Memorable Drive from Bangalore to Hampi

Traveling to Hampi in the monsoon brings together the excitement of seeing historical sites and sculptures with the delight of preserving their enduring beauty. In Bangalore, Harish, GR Pandith, and me, Goutham Ramesh, embarked on our journey in a Suzuki Jimny, full of anticipation for the scenic journey that lay ahead.

The Road to Hampi

Bangalore and Hampi are about 350 km apart, and depending on traffic and weather, the trip takes six to seven hours. With its reputation for toughness and small size, the Suzuki Jimny turned out to be the ideal car for this trip, particularly given the erratic monsoon weather. The ambiance for our picture adventure was created by the abundant foliage along the path, which was occasionally broken up by showers of rain.

Capturing the Essence of Hampi

A photographer’s dream come true is Hampi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old ruins are given new life during the monsoon season, when the rains highlight the stone’s textures and colors.

The magnificent backdrop created by the cloudy skies highlights the monuments even more.

Images from Hampi

The Vijaya Vittala Temple, with its iconic stone chariot illuminated by the first light of dawn and the sun’s rays shining through the gopuram, is a breathtaking sight. This masterpiece of Indian artistry, carved from stone, showcases the extraordinary skill and creativity of medieval Indian artists. It stands as a timeless testament to their greatness, capturing the essence of an era where art and architecture flourished in harmony. The beauty of this scene, bathed in the soft glow of dawn, reflects the enduring legacy of Hampi’s rich cultural heritage.

Warrior and Myth: The Stone Chariot and Yali of Vijaya Vittala Temple

At dawn, the Vijaya Vittala Temple complex in Hampi transforms into a mesmerizing sight, with the stone chariot bathed in the soft morning light. Next to the temple, on the Ranga Mantapa, stands a sculpture of a warrior riding a mythical yali. The yali, a majestic creature combining features of various animals—often with the body of a lion, the head of an elephant, and the tail of a serpent—symbolizes power, protection, and a blend of various strengths. Its fierce and graceful depiction in the sculpture adds a dynamic and mythical element to the scene.

With its recognisable stone chariot, the Vijaya Vitthala Temple complex in Hampi serves as a moving reminder of the area’s turbulent past as well as its rich cultural legacy. I wanted to convey a narrative that combined the architectural magnificence of the stone chariot with remnants of a bygone era characterised by both glory and devastation, which is why I included a broken elephant sculpture in the foreground.

The Rhythms of Eternity: Natya Mantapa’s Elegance

In the heart of the Vittala Temple complex lies the Natya Mantapa, an exquisite pavilion where stone seems to breathe life into the art of dance. Its intricately carved pillars are adorned with celestial dancers, musicians, and mythological figures, each depicting stories from the ancient past and capturing the essence of divine rhythms. The delicate craftsmanship showcases the mastery of Vijayanagara artisans, with every chiseled detail revealing an unparalleled dedication to art and spirituality. The Natya Mantapa stands as a testament to a bygone era, where art, devotion, and architecture converged to create a harmonious symphony in stone, inviting all who visit to immerse themselves in its timeless beauty.

In the ancient heart of Hampi’s embrace, where the sacred stones whisper their tales, the demigods dance with celestial grace, their forms etched in eternal detail. Behind them, the stone chariot stands, majestic and timeless in its regal repose, a testament to the hands that shaped this land, where history and art in harmony compose.

Perched atop Hemakuta Hill, the Hanuman Temple stands against a backdrop of brooding monsoon clouds, its silhouette striking against the dark sky. The temple, dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman, is a simple yet sacred structure that exudes a sense of spiritual serenity. The rain-soaked terrain surrounding the temple creates small puddles, capturing reflections of the temple and the swirling clouds above.

Reflections of Eternity: Monsoon Dreams Over Hemakuta

When it rains on Hemakuta Hill in Hampi, small puddles of water form and overflow, creating gentle trickles down the hill. The reflections of the clouds in these puddles, combined with the majestic Gopuram of Virupaksha Temple in the background, create a breathtaking scene. The dark monsoon clouds add a dramatic touch, enhancing the beauty and serenity of the landscape.

Monsoon Majesty, Reflections of Hampi’s Heritage

On top of Hemakuta Hills in Hampi, monsoon clouds gather thickly in the sky, their dark, rain-laden masses creating a dramatic backdrop for the ancient landscape. In the foreground, a water puddle forms on the rocky terrain, perfectly reflecting the turbulent sky above. Nearby, a traditional stone Mantapa stands, its intricately carved pillars and timeworn roof echoing the architectural splendor of the region. In the background, the towering gopuram of the Virupaksha Temple rises majestically, a testament to the grandeur of the Vijayanagara Empire.

Majestic Anantha Padmanabha: A Testament to Hampi’s Heritage

On the way to Hemkuta Hill in Hampi, one encounters the lesser-known but magnificent Anantha Padmanabha sculpture, nestled among the rocky terrain. This intricate carving, often overlooked by the usual throngs of tourists, stands as a testament to the rich heritage and artistry of Hampi. With the monsoon clouds rolling in, the dramatic backdrop enhances the beauty and mystique of this ancient site. The nearby Sasvekalu Ganapathi Temple further enriches the historical landscape, making this spot a serene and poignant reminder of the grandeur that once defined the Vijayanagara Empire. Amidst the monsoon’s embrace, this sculpture and its surroundings capture the timeless spirit of Hampi, inviting those who venture off the beaten path to witness its silent splendor.

The Ugra Narasimha statue in Hampi is a monumental 6.7-meter tall sculpture, depicting the fierce incarnation of Lord Vishnu as Narasimha, the half-lion, half-human deity. Carved out of a single granite boulder, the statue radiates raw power and divine ferocity, with its bulging eyes and majestic mane. Despite being damaged over time, the statue remains a symbol of the Vijayanagara Empire’s artistic brilliance and spiritual devotion. Set against the backdrop of Hampi’s ancient ruins , the Ugra Narasimha exudes a timeless aura, captivating all who behold its magnificence.

Floral Elegance at the Entrance of Hazara Rama Temple

At the entrance of the Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi, a delicate flower embellishes the ancient stone frame, adding a touch of natural elegance to the historic structure. This floral motif, intricately carved by skilled artisans of a bygone era, stands out against the weathered stone, symbolizing the harmonious blend of nature and artistry. As sunlight filters through the temple courtyard, the flower’s details come to life, offering a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage and artistic mastery of the Vijayanagara Empire. This exquisite carving serves as a reminder of the temple’s spiritual significance and the timeless beauty of its architectural design.

The Enchanting Courtyard of Hazara Rama Temple

The courtyard of the Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi is a captivating space that echoes the grandeur and spiritual essence of the Vijayanagara Empire. Surrounded by intricately carved walls that depict scenes from the Ramayana, the courtyard serves as a tranquil sanctuary, inviting visitors to step back in time.

Storytelling in Stone: The Outer Wall of Hazara Rama Temple

The outer wall of the Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi is a magnificent tapestry of stone carvings that brings to life the epic tales of the Ramayana. These intricate reliefs, carved with remarkable precision, depict scenes of divine battles, royal processions, and mythical creatures, showcasing the artistic excellence of the Vijayanagara artisans. Each panel tells a story, inviting visitors to trace the narrative of Rama’s journey through the skillful hands of ancient craftsmen. As light and shadow play across the weathered stone, the carvings reveal their timeless beauty and historical significance, offering a profound glimpse into the spiritual and cultural legacy of the Vijayanagara Empire.

The Octagonal Water Pavilion at Hampi stands as a testament to the ingenuity and grandeur of the Vijayanagara Empire. This architectural marvel, with its unique eight-sided design, is set amidst lush greenery, creating a serene oasis that captivates visitors. The pavilion, once part of the royal enclosure, showcases a harmonious blend of form and function, highlighting the empire’s mastery in water management and architectural aesthetics. As sunlight dances on the surface of the ancient water tank, the pavilion reflects the timeless beauty and rich cultural heritage of Hampi, offering a peaceful retreat and a glimpse into the past.

On a monsoon day atop Malvantha Raghunatha Hill, the Shiva Temple stands serenely amid the wet rocks . Heav clouds loom overhead, casting a mystical ambiance over the landscape. The rain-soaked ground around the temple forms puddles that perfectly reflect the temple’s majestic structure and the brooding sky above. These reflections create a mirror-like effect, blending the earthly and the divine…

Dawn’s Glow on Hampi’s Cobblestone Pathways

At dawn, the medieval cobblestone roads of Hampi come alive, creating a breathtaking scene as the first light of the day spills over the ancient landscape. These historic pathways, gracefully aged and partially covered with lush grass, whisper tales of bygone eras. The soft morning light casts a golden hue on the stones, highlighting their uneven surfaces and revealing the vibrant greens that weave through the cracks. As the mist lifts, the tranquil ambiance and rich history of this UNESCO World Heritage Site unfold, offering a mesmerizing glimpse into the past amid the serene beauty of the present.

Echoes of Ramayana: Sugreeva’s Cave and the Footprints of Legends

In the heart of Hampi lies Sugreeva’s Cave, a place steeped in legend and history. This cave is believed to be where Sugreeva, the exiled Vanara king, sought refuge. Hampi itself is often identified as the ancient kingdom of Kishkinda, the realm of the Vanaras from the epic Ramayana. Near Sugreeva’s Cave, visitors can find intriguing sculptures of two feet, thought to commemorate the presence of Rama and Lakshmana during their quest to rescue Sita. These footprints, etched in stone, serve as a poignant reminder of the timeless tales and heroic figures that have shaped the cultural and spiritual landscape of this enchanting region.

Monsoon’s Embrace: The Linga by the Tungabhadra River:

Carved on the banks of the Tungabhadra River, the Linga stands amidst the lively dance of monsoon breezes that ripple across the water. The river, touched by the refreshing gusts, swirls energetically around the ancient sculpture, creating a dynamic interplay of light and movement. With Rushya Mukha Hill rising majestically in the background, this scene becomes a vivid reflection of Hampi’s timeless beauty and spiritual depth. The combination of the lively river and the serene backdrop offers a profound sense of peace and connection, inviting contemplation amid the vibrant energies of nature.

A Bonus Trip to Daroji Bear Sanctuary

On our first day, we took a diversion to the Daroji Bear Sanctuary after the first session in Hampi. The Indian sloth bear resides in this sanctuary, which is roughly 15 kilometers from Hampi. The 82 square-kilometer Daroji Bear Sanctuary was created in 1994 and offers a safe refuge for bears like these as well as other animals like hyenas, leopards, and numerous bird species.

We had the good fortune to see several sloth bears searching for food with their babies while we were there. During the monsoon, the sanctuary’s lush, green scenery was a joy to behold and offered fantastic chances for wildlife photography. The informed staff at the sanctuary assisted us in learning more about the behavior and conservation activities pertaining to these amazing animals.

Images from Daroji

A Heartwarming Encounter with a Sloth Bear Family

In the serene wilderness, we were fortunate to witness an enchanting sight: a sloth bear with her playful cubs clinging to her back as they navigated the rocky terrain and forest floor with grace and curiosity. The mother bear, ever watchful and protective, carried her cubs over the uneven ground, their tiny paws gently wrapped around her fur. This unforgettable moment,epitomized the raw beauty and tender bond of wildlife in their natural habitat.

The female Painted Spurfowl (Galloperdix lunulata) is an understated beauty, adorned with earthy browns and subtle patterns that provide excellent camouflage in her natural habitat. Unlike the more vividly colored males, the female’s plumage consists of muted shades and intricate markings that blend seamlessly with the rocky hillsides, dry deciduous forests, and scrublands where she resides. These ground-dwelling birds are adept foragers, searching for seeds, insects, and small invertebrates among the underbrush. The female’s elusive nature and preference for dense cover make her a rewarding but challenging find for birdwatchers and photographers. Her quiet elegance and vital role in the ecosystem highlight the intricate balance of biodiversity in the Indian subcontinent.

Tips for Monsoon Photography in Hampi

Carry Weather Protection: Ensure your camera and lenses are well-protected from the rain. A weather-sealed camera or protective cover can be very useful.
Use a tripod: The low light conditions during the monsoon can result in longer exposure times. A tripod helps keep your shots sharp. However, it’s important to note that using a tripod within the protected monuments requires permission from the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Make sure to obtain the necessary permits beforehand or be ready to use higher ISO.
Explore Different Perspectives: Wet surfaces can create beautiful reflections. Look for puddles and wet stones to add a unique perspective to your shots.
Capture the Mood: The monsoon season adds a mystical aura to Hampi. Embrace the moody skies and the interplay of light and shadows.

A Journey to Remember

There was more to our monsoon vacation to Hampi than merely taking pictures. Exploring the rich history and architecture of this historic city was like taking a trip back in time. From the breathtaking trip in our Suzuki Jimny to the breathtaking views of Hampi’s monuments and sculptures, Harish, GR Pandith, and I relished every second of it. The addition of a layer of enchantment by the monsoon made our recollections and photos much more spectacular.

Whether you love history or photography, a trip to Hampi in the monsoon season is sure to enthrall and inspire you.

Thank you if you like the blog, You can leave a comment on Home page.

Cheers ,

Goutham Ramesh

01/01/202201/01/2022

Shilabhalika’s of Belur

The sculptural details on the walls of the Chennakeshava Temple, Belur is captivating. An aesthete is often drawn to this famous Hoysala temple town.

The graceful statue of Chennakeshava, mesmerising Mohini, the details in the ceiling make the temple interiors most beautiful among the Hoysala temples.

However the bracket figures, popularly called madanike or Shilabhalike , on the outer walls make me spend hours for their intricate details; They represent beautiful damsels in various moods representing feminine charm and grace, this perhaps are one of the best creations of the Hoysala sculptors of the Belur temple

In this blog I will show most of the madanike or Shilabhalike I captured recently! Hope you will like them as much as I did capturing them.

This is a the most popular all the Shilabalike’s The Darpana Sundari is right at the main entrance of the temple and it is lady holding mirror in her left hand and looking at her beauty in it.

This is a beauty with a pet parrot talking to it .. Shuka Bhasini means sweet talker.

This beautiful sculpture has her one hand damaged and missing maybe she was holding a color pump ( Pichkari ) , As per local guide looking at the smaller form on the right , filling color this might have been a figure playing holi .. so in 11-12 century AD maybe playing with colors was predominant in south india also

This Balika has dressed like a gypsy girl as per the hair style and she has a parrot on her arm.

This Balika has dressed like a gypsy girl and chasing away the monkey which is pulling her dress , the feet is decorated with anklets and toe ring like all other sculptures.. this one is just shows a very pure feminine posture.

A beautiful Balike aiming het arrow at a bird sitting on the canopy

She is dressing her hair after bath. The attendants are holding flowers and toiletry. This madanika has washed her hair and is squeezing the water out of it. This depiction is seen on a sculpture inside the temple too

A lady is dancing stylishly by bending her body into three portions, one from the waist downward, other from the waist to the chest and another upwards. This is said to be the most difficult one to exhibit. This is apparently one of the most difficult postures to achieve in Bharatanatyam

She holds in her left hand a drum and she is playing upon it with her right hand.If you look closely , the hand that is holding the drum is inside the strings that hold the membrane .. such mastery over sculpting is worth noticing

She is playing on her flute. Her maid on the left side is accompanying her to the tune of the flute with her own flute

If you look closely she is singing with her mouth open and there are musicians with instruments accompanying her.

This is one of the most beautiful shila balika .Her hands and legs are cut out very nicely. Look at the canopy above her left shoulder. You can see a jackfruit and a fly on it ( If zoom , this picture does not do justice to this amazing art ) .

She is a Musician . She is standing holding the instrument (Rudra veena) in her left hand. Her maids are arranging for a concert

She holds a mirror having a handle. She is arranging the curls on the forehead with her right hand finger

She is plucking a mango with her right hand, unfortunately not much is known, this one is damaged more than others with one hand missing and also her maids are missing.

Women of ancient india were skilled warriors as well , this is one sculpture of a warrior beauty with her bow , she must have been a great archer.

This is a drummer looks like a female dressed as male or male drummer with feminine pose and ornaments or a young girl . its anybody’s guess . One thing is sure this is different from other shilabalika and stands out.

This is one of many dancer shila balikes , one hand is missing and she is accompanied by drummers.

Dancer , vaishnava pose of feet with drummers

This is one of many dancer shila balikes , Beautiful feminine form with a dance pose where The feet are kept two and a half Talas apart from each other. One of them should be on the ground in the natural posture, the other is lifted and turned sideways with the toes stretched and turned towards the shin, its called vaishnava pose of feet

She is like a Goddess . She holds a rod with skull at the top in her left hand and her head is dressed with a band of skulls.

Beauty with a bow, a hunter with her fellow hunters.

This is one of few shilabalika shown with a bow , here the bow is damaged , but looks more intricate , the arrow in the other hand is also damaged , the accompanying images show a female hunter with a deer kill .. It shows in 12/13 century India women also participated in hunting and were very skilled hunters . The toe is also very delicately posed .. indicating a delicate movement required for hunting … amazing.

She is practicing her dance. Her maids are helping her by playing on their instruments.

The figure illustrates the epic story of God Vishnu who took the form of Mohini

Shilabalika Draping a saree / cloth, getting dressed

Shilabalika draping a saree or a cloth

This looks like she is a queen or princess , who is getting dressed up by a maid.

She is holding in her left hand palm leaves and and the right hand is in speaking pose.

She is holding in her left hand something that looks like a banana and in her right hand a fan

This madanika is holding a ‘nagaveena’. A veena with one end shaped like a snake.

She is fully dressed and has put on all sorts of ornaments on her body. She is looking at her beauty in proud through a mirror. This madanika is called Abhimani… the proud one. Symbolizing someone who has a lot of pride in her beauty and is also very conscious of it. The sculpture at the left (at her feet), holds up a mirror but is looking away – kind of telling her ‘woman, reality check’.

Shilabalika Dancing with a imaginary flute

Dancing with an imaginary flute ; This one has an imaginary flute in her hand. Look at the details on the ear ring , beauty

Dancing with a damaru in left hand and tala vadya in right hand

She has tied her hair into a fine knot, and she is holding a mast of some kind.

The lady has put on her best dress and ornaments and is ready to go for a dance.This one depicts whose is being adorned by a toe-ring. she is holding onto a vine for balance.

This is one of the few odd one out with male form , with beard and moustache playing a drum , have a look at the fingers of left hand inside the strings that hold the membrane together .. master sculpture

She is holding a playing a taala vadya instrument with other musicians accompanying her

The Arch Dancer, She is dancing to the tune of the fun of her accomplice on both her sides

This is one of the most beautiful shilabalika found inside the temple and this is of Queen Shantala devi , an expert dancer and a very able administrator and an inspiration for all shilabalikas , being a dancer she used to dance in Navaranga inside the temple and she was an Queen.

She is dancing here . See the canopy behind. She is wearing a gem just above the middle of the forehead.

This Inside the temple

A lady holds a creeper in her right hand. A parrot is sitting on the fore palm of her left hand. She looks as if she is having a conversation with the parrot. She is having a bangle on her right hand and can MOVE UP AND DOWN ( Can really move !)

This Inside the temple
She is wringing her hair to squeeze the water after her bath. You can see the drops of water collected at the tip of her hairs.

This Inside the temple

She wears on her forearm, a good number of bangles, which give an impression of moving to and fro.

Thanks for patiently reading and seeing the images as I humbly bow with a sense of awe and admiration wondering at the architectural excellence of the Hoysala craftsmen! Incredible India and it shows what rich culture we come from.

If you like the blog, you can leave a comment at Home Page

Cheers

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is TransparentImage-4.png — Goutham Ramesh

02/08/202110/08/2021

Hoysalas skilled artists of India

Hoysalas (1026 CE – 1343 CE) were a dynasty that ruled present day Karnataka, parts of Tamil Nadu and south-western Telangana; Their contribution to art especially sculpture and temple architecture is unparalleled! Their era was marked by illustrious achievements in art, architecture, and culture. The nucleus of this activity lay in the present-day Hassan district of Karnataka, India. Their intention of surpassing the Western Chalukyan Empire (973 CE – 1189 CE) in its own sphere provided further impetus for excelling in the field of architecture.

History of the Hoysala Empire

The Hoysala rulers began as local chieftains in the hills of Western Ghats. With time, their fortune began to prosper and within a few decades they achieved the status of a powerful feudatory under Western Chalukyan Emperors. Early in the history of Hoysala dynasty, the capital of their nascent dominion was shifted from the hills of Western Ghats to Belur. The military conquests of Vishnuvardhan (1108 CE – 1152 CE) against the neighboring Chola Empire (c. 300 BCE – 1279 CE) in 1116 CE marks the first major development in the history of these dynasts. A new age ushered with Vishnuvardhan as he built the Chennakesava temple (1117 CE) in Belur to celebrate this victory; furthermore, he decided to shift the capital almost 20 km to the east to Halebidu or Halebid.

The Hoysalas gained their political freedom in 1192 during the reign of Veera Ballala II (1173 CE – 1220 CE). They soon became a leading power in Southern India and enjoyed territorial supremacy and economic well-being over the next century or so. At its height, the empire consisted of present-day Karnataka, parts of Tamil Nadu and south-western Telangana. However, invasions of sultanates from Delhi and Madurai, from 1311 CE onwards, proved fatal to the then reigning monarch, Veera Ballala III (1292 CE – 1343 CE). He eventually succumbed to these repeated onslaughts in 1343 CE.

I have tried to capture some of their architectural marvels in the following images, I would like to call this as poetry in stone.