The Timeless Tapestry of Hoysala Sculptures: Stories Etched in Stone

The Hoysala temples, located in the centre of Karnataka, are silent storytellers. The elaborate sculptures that adorn their exterior walls tell timeless and beautiful tales. These walls are more than just stone constructions; they are canvases where art and devotion coexist and where mythology, gods, and the human soul all dance through the ages.


Walls as Canvases of Devotion

The exterior walls of the Hoysalas’ temples were much more than just defensive structures. They served as a sacrifice, a stone-carved dedication, and a tapestry of spiritual symbols and holy myths that adorn and protect the temples. Every corner speaks a legend, and every wall recounts a tale. Thus, the Hoysalas left behind more than just temples in their intricate sculptures; they also bequeathed a legacy that will inspire future generations with its message of faith and inventiveness. In this blog, I will share a small set of the sculptures from these walls!


Narayana Seated on Adishesha: Divine Balance and Poise, : Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholallu

The sculpture of Narayana seated on the seven-headed Adishesha at Hosaholalu radiates a sense of calm authority. Captured with a Nikon 24mm tilt-shift lens using the tilt functionality, the shot emphasizes the depth and detail of Narayana’s divine posture. Narayana sits gracefully, with one leg resting on the ground and the other comfortably positioned on the coiled body of the divine serpent. His left hand rests gently on his knee, adding a relaxed yet powerful posture of authority to his form.

Shot with Nikon 24mm Tilt Shift, The tilt-shift effect enhances Narayana’s balanced poise, isolating the intricate sculpture against the background and drawing the viewer’s focus to the sculptural details. This composition captures Narayana’s balanced poise, embodying his role as the preserver. The sculpture stands as a testament to the devotion and skill of the artisans who brought this vision of divinity to life, transforming stone into a symbol of cosmic order and serenity.


“Lakshmi Narasimha: Divine Grace at Hosaholalu” : Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholallu

The sculpture of Lakshmi Narasimha at Hosaholalu captures a scene of both gentleness and strength. Goddess Lakshmi sits gracefully on the lap of Lord Narasimha, her serene expression contrasting with Narasimha’s powerful presence. The intricacy of Lakshmi’s delicate features and Narasimha’s fierce, protective form symbolizes their harmonious union, embodying both compassion and valor.

Shot with a Nikon 24mm tilt-shift lens using the tilt functionality, the image draws focus to the divine duo, enhancing their three-dimensional relief and depth against the intricately carved stone backdrop. This perspective sharpens the details—the finely carved jewelry adorning Lakshmi, the lion-like intensity in Narasimha’s posture, and the layers of symbolism in every curve. The tilt effect allows for a unique emphasis on their expressions and fine craftsmanship, celebrating the beauty and complexity that Hoysala artisans sculpted into each detail.


Airavata and Indra: A Majestic Union in Stone : Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholallu

The sculpture of Airavata carrying Indra is a breathtaking representation of divine power and grace. Airavata, the mythical white elephant is carved with majestic details—its muscular frame adorned with ornamental motifs, capturing the grandeur and elegance of this celestial creature. The intricacies of the adornments around its body highlight the skill of the ancient craftsmen.

Seated atop Airavata is Indra, the king of the gods, holding his vajra (thunderbolt) with a regal posture. His divine armor and robes are carved with precision, flowing gracefully as if caught in a celestial breeze. Indra’s expression, one of authority and calm, signifies his role as the protector of the heavens. The union of Airavata and Indra in this sculpture symbolizes strength and leadership, portraying the bond between a god and his vahana (vehicle).

This depiction, with its attention to fine detail and balance, showcases the artistic excellence of Indian sculptors from the era, capturing the divine connection between the deity and his celestial mount.


Lakshmi Narayana: Divine Grace and Balance in Stone  Lakshmi Narayana: Divine Grace and Balance in Stone 

The sculpture of Lakshmi Narayana captures a scene of divine harmony and elegance, where Lakshmi sits gracefully on the lap of Narayana (Vishnu). The depiction showcases a moment of celestial unity, with Lakshmi resting comfortably, her serene expression mirroring the calm and composed demeanor of Narayana. Her feet are delicately placed on a lotus, which is sculpted to appear gently bent, as if bowing under the weight of her divinity, emphasizing the balance between grace and power.

Narayana is carved in a protective and loving posture, his hand supporting Lakshmi while his other arm rests confidently. The intricate details of their attire, from the delicate jewelry to the flowing garments, display the artistry of ancient Indian sculptors. Lakshmi’s crown is adorned with fine floral patterns, while Narayana’s crown is regal, reflecting his status as the preserver.


Gaja Lakshmi Narayana: The Divine Couple with the Royal Elephant : Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholallu

The sculpture of Gaja Lakshmi Narayana depicts the divine union of Lakshmi and Narayana with an added touch of grandeur and symbolism. In this magnificent carving, Lakshmi is seated on Narayana’s lap, her feet resting gracefully on an elephant (Gaja). The elephant, a symbol of prosperity and strength, supports the goddess with a gentle posture.

Narayana, seated in a protective and commanding position, gazes ahead with a composed and serene expression, while his arm holds Lakshmi gently. The jewelry on both deities—cascading necklaces, armlets, and intricately detailed crowns—demonstrates the fine artistry of the sculptors, capturing the elegance and divinity of the pair


Garuda’s Divine Flight: Narayana and Lakshmi Carving: Lakshminarayana temple, Hosaholallu

In this exquisite sculpture from 1250 AD, Garuda, the mighty bird vehicle, carries Narayana with grace and strength. Seated on Narayana’s lap is the Goddess Lakshmi, radiating divine serenity. The intricate details of their jewelry catch the eye—delicate chains, earrings, and armlets, all meticulously carved into the stone, showcase the brilliance of Indian artisans from this era. Each piece of jewelry, whether it’s the layered necklaces or the ornamental crowns, reveals a mastery of craftsmanship, making the figures appear almost lifelike despite being etched into solid stone.

The artist’s ability to bring out such fine detail in the jewelry, clothing, and expressions of the deities reflects the artistic and spiritual sophistication of the period. This sculpture is not just a portrayal of divinity but also a celebration of the skill and devotion that went into temple art, leaving a timeless legacy of Hoysala brilliance.


Divine Artistry: The Dancing God of Somnathapura : Channakesava Temple , Somnatapura

No photograph can truly do justice to the exquisitely carved dancing god at Somnathapura, a masterpiece that was created around 1268 AD, over 750 years ago. The details are breathtaking, with even the finest pieces of jewelry intricately sculpted into the stone. Each curve and contour brings the divine figure to life, showcasing the incredible skill and craftsmanship of our Indian ancestors. This stunning piece of art leaves one in awe, wondering about the dedication and talent that went into its creation.

Somnathapura is not just a temple; it’s a testament to India’s rich cultural heritage and artistic brilliance. For anyone passionate about art, history, or spirituality, this place is a must-visit. It stands as a heaven for art lovers, where every stone tells a story of devotion and artistic mastery.


intricate Cloth Designs of Hoysala Sculptures, Lakshmi Narashimha temple , Nuggehalli

The intricate cloth designs carved by the Hoysala artisans at the Nuggehalli Temple glorify the opulence and elegance of 12th-century India. Each garment sculpted in stone appears to flow naturally over the figures, showcasing an array of floral motifs, geometric patterns, and ornate weaves. The borders of these garments are adorned with symmetrical rows of tiny beaded patterns, giving the appearance of embroidery that seems to defy the rigidity of stone.

The artisans paid meticulous attention to every fold and pleat, creating a sense of movement and texture that breathes life into the stone. The delicate engravings along the borders and the layered textures of the clothing demonstrate the weavers’ art transmuted into stone, making it appear as if these celestial beings are draped in rich fabrics. The interplay of light and shadow on these carvings emphasizes the depth and three-dimensional quality of the designs, making the garments look almost tangible.

These exquisite carvings stand as a tribute to the grandeur of Hoysala artistry and the cultural richness of the era. By immortalizing the textiles of 12th-century India in stone, the sculptures at Nuggehalli glorify the kingdom’s artistic heritage and mastery, offering a timeless representation of divine beauty and elegance.


Mahishasura Mardini and the Graceful Apsara: Nuggehalli Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Temple

The 12th-century AD sculpture of Mahishasura Mardini (Durga) at the Nuggehalli Hoysala Temple is a stunning depiction of divine power. Durga is shown stabbing the demon Mahishasura with her trident in one hand, while the other hand holds a sword with the lifeless body of a foe hanging from its tip. Her feet are firmly pressed against the bull that Mahishasura is riding, asserting her dominance and triumph over evil. Every detail of her fierce expression and dynamic stance captures the intensity of this divine confrontation.

In sharp contrast, the adjacent sculpture of the Apsara exudes an aura of serenity and elegance. She stands in a relaxed pose, completely devoid of any clothing or ornaments, her form flowing naturally as she plays with a delicate creeper in her hands. The lack of adornment draws attention to her ethereal beauty and graceful curves, symbolizing the gentle side of divine femininity.

This juxtaposition of Durga’s formidable power with the Apsara’s tranquil beauty exemplifies the duality of divine femininity, captured masterfully by the Hoysala artisans at Nuggehalli.


Legacy of Art and Spirit

“The sculptures of Hoysala temples are more than relics; they are reminders. They remind us of an age when art was as much a part of worship as prayer, when stone was not merely hewn but transformed into something that could transcend time. Each carving, every motif, is a chapter in a story that the Hoysala artisans crafted to outlast even the temples themselves, offering us today a window into their world, a glimpse of life captured in the dance of shadow and light across stone.

In the presence of these sculptures, we are reminded that art, when made with devotion, lives on forever. The Hoysala walls stand strong, not just as ancient structures but as immortal testaments to the spirit of a people who saw beauty in every inch of stone and who carved their dreams and their gods into the heart of the temple walls.”

if you like the blog, you can leave a comment on Home  page.

Cheers ,

Goutham Ramesh

Stone Stories of Lepakshi: A Photographer’s Perspective

Different Perspective: Nagalinga and the Corridor at Lepakshi

“Lepakshi Temple, a gem of the Vijayanagara Empire, stands as a masterpiece of ancient Indian architecture and artistry. I had the chance to visit this place a couple of times recently, accompanied by young minds and later with senior photographer GR Pandith. Every pillar, sculpture, and carving within its sacred walls holds centuries of history and devotion. Through my lens, I’ve sought to capture the timeless beauty of this temple—its intricate stonework, the grandeur of the Nagalinga, and the spiritual essence that resonates in every corner. Join me as I share the visual stories etched into the heart of Lepakshi’s architectural marvel.”


Stone Stories

Different Perspective: Nagalinga and the Corridor at Lepakshi

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

Shooting the Nagalinga at Lepakshi presents a unique opportunity to break away from traditional compositions, and incorporating the corridor into the frame is a refreshing way to do just that. In this particular composition, captured with the precision of the Nikon 24mm PCE tilt-shift lens, the grandeur of the Nagalinga is beautifully complemented by the linear perspective of the corridor. The lens’s ability to maintain perfect alignment and eliminate distortion adds to the clarity and impact of the scene, creating a dynamic interplay between the sacred sculpture and the surrounding architecture.

The corridor, with its rhythmic sequence of pillars and shadows, adds depth and context, guiding the viewer’s eye towards the Nagalinga while also offering a sense of continuity within the temple complex. This approach not only highlights the Nagalinga as a focal point but also integrates it into the broader narrative of the temple’s architecture, making the composition visually striking and richly layered with meaning.

This is one of those compositions where breaking the monotony of traditional views brings a fresh and engaging perspective to a revered subject, offering a new way to appreciate the timeless beauty of Lepakshi.


Eternal Grace: Lepakshi Nagalinga and Sculpted Pillar

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE

In this composition, the beautifully sculpted pillar takes the foreground, framing the majestic Lepakshi Nagalinga that stands behind it. The Nikon 24mm PCE lens, renowned for its zero distortion, captures the scene with exceptional clarity, allowing the intricate carvings of the pillar to stand out while still maintaining the grandeur of the Nagalinga in the background. The alignment of the pillar and the Nagalinga creates a harmonious balance, showcasing the timeless craftsmanship of ancient India. The lens’s precision highlights every detail, making the scene a testament to the enduring beauty of these architectural wonders.


Reflections of History: The Unfinished/Ruins Kalyana Mantapa

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE

The entrance of the unfinished or runis Kalyana Mantapa at Lepakshi, captured in the reflection of a puddle of water, offers a hauntingly beautiful glimpse into the past. The partially completed structure, with its towering pillars and intricate carvings, appears almost ghostly in the still water, creating a mirror image that blurs the lines between reality and reflection. The delicate details of the entrance, carved with scenes from mythology and adorned with floral patterns, are perfectly echoed in the water, adding a sense of symmetry and balance to the scene. The unfinished nature of the Mantapa, juxtaposed with its reflection, symbolizes the timelessness of the temple’s architecture, where even incomplete structures evoke a sense of grandeur and mystery. This fleeting reflection, captured after a rain shower, serves as a poignant reminder of the impermanence of life and the enduring beauty of art.


Divine Perspective: Ganesha and the Ancient Entrance of Kalyana Mantapa at Lepakshi

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

In the sacred space of theTemple, the Ganesha idol, sculpted directly into the rock, commands a serene presence. This view captures not only the deity but also the historical remnants of a grand entrance to the Kalyana Mantapa, now framed by the enduring beauty of the temple’s architecture.

The stone frame, which once served as the entrance to the Kalyana Mantapa, stands in silent testimony to the temple’s bygone splendor. Positioned behind the rock-carved Ganesha, the frame adds depth and context to the scene, drawing the viewer’s eye through the layers of architectural history. The interplay between the Ganesha sculpture and the ancient entrance highlights the artistic and spiritual legacy of Lepakshi.

This perspective emphasizes the intricate relationship between the natural rock formations and the crafted architectural elements, creating a harmonious blend of the sacred and the historical. The image serves as a poignant reminder of the temple’s timeless significance, where each element, from the Ganesha sculpture to the weathered entrance frame, contributes to the narrative of this revered site.


Echoes of Divinity: The Pillars of Lepakshi’s Kalyana Mantapa

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

The pillars of Kalyana Mantapa stand as resilient testaments to the artistry and devotion of a bygone era, even as the roof lies in ruins. Each pillar is adorned with intricate sculptures of gods, capturing moments of divine mythology frozen in stone. The figures are carved with exquisite detail, from the expressions on the faces of the deities to the ornate adornments they wear. Though the roof has fallen, these pillars continue to exude a sense of sacredness and grandeur, their carvings offering glimpses into the spiritual and cultural richness of the time. The ruins, with their mix of decay and divine imagery, create a powerful contrast, reminding us of the impermanence of structures yet the enduring legacy of the art and faith they embody.


Stories in Stone: Relief Sculptures on Lepakshi Temple’s Outer Corridors

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

The relief sculptures on the pillars in the corridors around the outer wall of the Temple are a marvel of ancient artistry, each one telling a unique story from the rich tapestry of Hindu mythology. Carved with meticulous precision, these sculptures depict gods, goddesses, celestial beings, animals, and mythical creatures, all intricately intertwined in scenes of devotion, battle, and celebration. The figures, though rendered in stone, convey a sense of movement and life, with their detailed expressions and dynamic poses. The craftsmanship of these reliefs showcases the skill and imagination of the Vijayanagara artisans, who transformed the stone pillars into narrative canvases. As you walk through these corridors, the relief sculptures invite you to immerse yourself in the spiritual and cultural heritage they represent, offering a timeless connection to the stories and beliefs that shaped this sacred space.


Architectural Splendor: The Pillared Corridor of Lepakshi’s Outer Wall 

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

The pillared corridor of the outer wall enclosure at Temple is a testament to the architectural brilliance of the Vijayanagara period. These corridors, lined with intricately carved pillars, stretch endlessly, creating a rhythmic pattern of light and shadow that enhances the temple’s serene ambiance. Each pillar is adorned with detailed reliefs depicting deities, mythical creatures, and floral motifs, showcasing the artisans’ dedication to their craft.

Photographing this corridor with the Nikon 24mm PCE tilt-shift lens is a transformative experience. The lens’s ability to eliminate distortion ensures that the pillars remain perfectly vertical, preserving the symmetry and balance of the scene. In architectural photography, where precision is paramount, the 24mm PCE lens is a boon, capturing the true essence of the structure without compromising on the integrity of the lines or the intricate details. The result is an image that faithfully represents the grandeur of the corridor, allowing the viewer to appreciate the full scale and beauty of this historic space.


Divine Artistry: Sages and Demigods on the Outer Pillars of Lepakshi’s Kalyana Mantapa

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

The outer pillars of the unfinished Kalyana Mantapa are adorned with intricate sculptures of sages and demigods, each figure meticulously carved with expressions of devotion, wisdom, and spiritual power. These pillars, though part of an incomplete structure, stand as magnificent examples of the artistry and religious fervor that define the temple complex.

These sculptures not only enhance the architectural beauty of the Kalyana Mantapa but also serve as a testament to the rich spiritual and cultural heritage of Lepakshi, making it a must-visit site for anyone interested in India’s ancient traditions.


Enduring Devotion: The Stone Tulasi Pot of Lepakshi 

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

In the hallowed grounds of the temple amidst the temple’s grand architecture and intricate sculptures, stands a centuries-old Tulasi pot, sculpted entirely out of stone. This ancient artifact, though simple in its form, embodies the timeless devotion and spiritual practices that have been an integral part of this sacred site for generations.

The Tulasi pot, traditionally used to house the holy basil plant revered in Hinduism, is carved with a delicate precision that highlights the artisans’ respect for both nature and spirituality. Its stone surface has weathered the passage of time, yet it retains a sense of grace and purity. The pot’s design features subtle floral motifs and geometric patterns that are characteristic of the Vijayanagara style, blending seamlessly with the temple’s overall aesthetic.

This stone Tulasi pot is not merely a vessel; it is a symbol of the enduring faith and the cultural heritage that continues to thrive at Lepakshi. As it stands resilient through the centuries, it serves as a poignant reminder of the connection between the divine and the natural world, cherished in this historic temple complex.


Stone Legacy: The Carved Food Thali of Lepaksh

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE Tilt-Shift

In the ancient temple complex ,nestled among the rocks adjacent to the main temple wall and near the Hanuman Mantapa, lies a unique and fascinating artifact—a food thali carved directly into the stone. This thali, meticulously chiseled out of the natural rock surface, is an extraordinary example of the practical artistry that characterizes the site.

The thali features distinct sections, each carefully shaped to resemble the compartments of a traditional Indian meal plate, where different food items would be served. The craftsmanship is remarkable, with smooth, rounded edges and a perfectly proportioned layout, reflecting the skill and attention to detail of the artisans who created it. This stone-carved thali, seemingly simple yet deeply symbolic, offers a glimpse into the daily life and rituals of the past, where even the act of eating was elevated to an art form.

Located in a serene and somewhat hidden spot, this carving invites reflection on the blending of the sacred and the everyday in the cultural heritage of Lepakshi. It stands as a testament to the ingenuity and creativity of the people who once inhabited and worshiped in this historic site.


Intricate Artistry: The Drummer Sculpture at Lepakshi 

Camera: Nikon D750
Lens: Nikon 24mm PCE

The sculpture of a drummer is a masterpiece of delicate craftsmanship. Carved from stone, the drummer’s hand is intricately positioned inside the strings of the drum, a detail so fine that it appears almost lifelike. The precision with which the strings and the hand are rendered is a testament to the extraordinary skill of the artisans who brought this sculpture to life. The Nikon 24mm PCE lens captures this intricate detail with perfect clarity, highlighting the depth and dimension of the carving without any distortion.

This sculpture not only showcases the artistic brilliance of the Vijayanagara period but also evokes the rhythm and music that would have once filled the temple complex. The delicate carving of the hand within the drum strings adds a dynamic element to the piece, making it seem as though the drummer might start playing at any moment, bringing the stone to life.


Historical records

Camera: Nikon Zfc ; Lens : 7 Artisans 7.5 mm Fisheye

The inscriptions on the walls are a stunning blend of artistry and history, featuring elegant Kannada and Telugu scripts. These beautifully carved texts detail the temple’s rich heritage, from royal donations to religious hymns, surrounded by intricate floral and geometric designs. They offer a glimpse into the cultural and historical legacy of the Vijayanagara Empire, preserved with remarkable precision and detail.


“As I wandered through the corridors and stood before the magnificent sculptures of Lepakshi Temple, I realized that this place is more than just a historical monument—it is a canvas of devotion and artistry, frozen in time. Each photograph I’ve shared is a small glimpse into the temple’s grandeur, a tribute to the incredible craftsmanship of the Vijayanagara era. I hope these images inspire you to explore the rich cultural heritage that lives on in the stones of Lepakshi, where history and art are woven together in an eternal dance.”

if you like the blog, you can leave a comment on Home  page.

Cheers ,

Goutham Ramesh


Photographing Monuments and Sculpture at Hampi During Monsoon

Reflections of Devotion: Hanuman Temple Amidst Monsoon Clouds

A Memorable Drive from Bangalore to Hampi

Traveling to Hampi in the monsoon brings together the excitement of seeing historical sites and sculptures with the delight of preserving their enduring beauty. In Bangalore, Harish, GR Pandith, and me, Goutham Ramesh, embarked on our journey in a Suzuki Jimny, full of anticipation for the scenic journey that lay ahead.

The Road to Hampi

Bangalore and Hampi are about 350 km apart, and depending on traffic and weather, the trip takes six to seven hours. With its reputation for toughness and small size, the Suzuki Jimny turned out to be the ideal car for this trip, particularly given the erratic monsoon weather. The ambiance for our picture adventure was created by the abundant foliage along the path, which was occasionally broken up by showers of rain.

Capturing the Essence of Hampi

A photographer’s dream come true is Hampi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old ruins are given new life during the monsoon season, when the rains highlight the stone’s textures and colors.

The magnificent backdrop created by the cloudy skies highlights the monuments even more.

Images from Hampi

Dawn’s Embrace

The Vijaya Vittala Temple, with its iconic stone chariot illuminated by the first light of dawn and the sun’s rays shining through the gopuram, is a breathtaking sight. This masterpiece of Indian artistry, carved from stone, showcases the extraordinary skill and creativity of medieval Indian artists. It stands as a timeless testament to their greatness, capturing the essence of an era where art and architecture flourished in harmony. The beauty of this scene, bathed in the soft glow of dawn, reflects the enduring legacy of Hampi’s rich cultural heritage.


Warrior and Myth: The Stone Chariot and Yali of Vijaya Vittala Temple

At dawn, the Vijaya Vittala Temple complex in Hampi transforms into a mesmerizing sight, with the stone chariot bathed in the soft morning light. Next to the temple, on the Ranga Mantapa, stands a sculpture of a warrior riding a mythical yali. The yali, a majestic creature combining features of various animals—often with the body of a lion, the head of an elephant, and the tail of a serpent—symbolizes power, protection, and a blend of various strengths. Its fierce and graceful depiction in the sculpture adds a dynamic and mythical element to the scene.


Echoes of Time

With its recognisable stone chariot, the Vijaya Vitthala Temple complex in Hampi serves as a moving reminder of the area’s turbulent past as well as its rich cultural legacy. I wanted to convey a narrative that combined the architectural magnificence of the stone chariot with remnants of a bygone era characterised by both glory and devastation, which is why I included a broken elephant sculpture in the foreground.


The Rhythms of Eternity: Natya Mantapa’s Elegance

In the heart of the Vittala Temple complex lies the Natya Mantapa, an exquisite pavilion where stone seems to breathe life into the art of dance. Its intricately carved pillars are adorned with celestial dancers, musicians, and mythological figures, each depicting stories from the ancient past and capturing the essence of divine rhythms. The delicate craftsmanship showcases the mastery of Vijayanagara artisans, with every chiseled detail revealing an unparalleled dedication to art and spirituality. The Natya Mantapa stands as a testament to a bygone era, where art, devotion, and architecture converged to create a harmonious symphony in stone, inviting all who visit to immerse themselves in its timeless beauty.


Dance of the Divine

In the ancient heart of Hampi’s embrace, where the sacred stones whisper their tales, the demigods dance with celestial grace, their forms etched in eternal detail. Behind them, the stone chariot stands, majestic and timeless in its regal repose, a testament to the hands that shaped this land, where history and art in harmony compose.


Reflections of Devotion: Hanuman Temple Amidst Monsoon Clouds

Perched atop Hemakuta Hill, the Hanuman Temple stands against a backdrop of brooding monsoon clouds, its silhouette striking against the dark sky. The temple, dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman, is a simple yet sacred structure that exudes a sense of spiritual serenity. The rain-soaked terrain surrounding the temple creates small puddles, capturing reflections of the temple and the swirling clouds above.


Reflections of Eternity: Monsoon Dreams Over Hemakuta

When it rains on Hemakuta Hill in Hampi, small puddles of water form and overflow, creating gentle trickles down the hill. The reflections of the clouds in these puddles, combined with the majestic Gopuram of Virupaksha Temple in the background, create a breathtaking scene. The dark monsoon clouds add a dramatic touch, enhancing the beauty and serenity of the landscape.


Monsoon Majesty, Reflections of Hampi’s Heritage

On top of Hemakuta Hills in Hampi, monsoon clouds gather thickly in the sky, their dark, rain-laden masses creating a dramatic backdrop for the ancient landscape. In the foreground, a water puddle forms on the rocky terrain, perfectly reflecting the turbulent sky above. Nearby, a traditional stone Mantapa stands, its intricately carved pillars and timeworn roof echoing the architectural splendor of the region. In the background, the towering gopuram of the Virupaksha Temple rises majestically, a testament to the grandeur of the Vijayanagara Empire.


Majestic Anantha Padmanabha: A Testament to Hampi’s Heritage

On the way to Hemkuta Hill in Hampi, one encounters the lesser-known but magnificent Anantha Padmanabha sculpture, nestled among the rocky terrain. This intricate carving, often overlooked by the usual throngs of tourists, stands as a testament to the rich heritage and artistry of Hampi. With the monsoon clouds rolling in, the dramatic backdrop enhances the beauty and mystique of this ancient site. The nearby Sasvekalu Ganapathi Temple further enriches the historical landscape, making this spot a serene and poignant reminder of the grandeur that once defined the Vijayanagara Empire. Amidst the monsoon’s embrace, this sculpture and its surroundings capture the timeless spirit of Hampi, inviting those who venture off the beaten path to witness its silent splendor.


The Ugra Narasimha statue

The Ugra Narasimha statue in Hampi is a monumental 6.7-meter tall sculpture, depicting the fierce incarnation of Lord Vishnu as Narasimha, the half-lion, half-human deity. Carved out of a single granite boulder, the statue radiates raw power and divine ferocity, with its bulging eyes and majestic mane. Despite being damaged over time, the statue remains a symbol of the Vijayanagara Empire’s artistic brilliance and spiritual devotion. Set against the backdrop of Hampi’s ancient ruins , the Ugra Narasimha exudes a timeless aura, captivating all who behold its magnificence.


Floral Elegance at the Entrance of Hazara Rama Temple

At the entrance of the Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi, a delicate flower embellishes the ancient stone frame, adding a touch of natural elegance to the historic structure. This floral motif, intricately carved by skilled artisans of a bygone era, stands out against the weathered stone, symbolizing the harmonious blend of nature and artistry. As sunlight filters through the temple courtyard, the flower’s details come to life, offering a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage and artistic mastery of the Vijayanagara Empire. This exquisite carving serves as a reminder of the temple’s spiritual significance and the timeless beauty of its architectural design.


The Enchanting Courtyard of Hazara Rama Temple

The courtyard of the Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi is a captivating space that echoes the grandeur and spiritual essence of the Vijayanagara Empire. Surrounded by intricately carved walls that depict scenes from the Ramayana, the courtyard serves as a tranquil sanctuary, inviting visitors to step back in time.


Storytelling in Stone: The Outer Wall of Hazara Rama Temple

The outer wall of the Hazara Rama Temple in Hampi is a magnificent tapestry of stone carvings that brings to life the epic tales of the Ramayana. These intricate reliefs, carved with remarkable precision, depict scenes of divine battles, royal processions, and mythical creatures, showcasing the artistic excellence of the Vijayanagara artisans. Each panel tells a story, inviting visitors to trace the narrative of Rama’s journey through the skillful hands of ancient craftsmen. As light and shadow play across the weathered stone, the carvings reveal their timeless beauty and historical significance, offering a profound glimpse into the spiritual and cultural legacy of the Vijayanagara Empire.


The Octagonal Water Pavilion

The Octagonal Water Pavilion at Hampi stands as a testament to the ingenuity and grandeur of the Vijayanagara Empire. This architectural marvel, with its unique eight-sided design, is set amidst lush greenery, creating a serene oasis that captivates visitors. The pavilion, once part of the royal enclosure, showcases a harmonious blend of form and function, highlighting the empire’s mastery in water management and architectural aesthetics. As sunlight dances on the surface of the ancient water tank, the pavilion reflects the timeless beauty and rich cultural heritage of Hampi, offering a peaceful retreat and a glimpse into the past.


Shiva Temple

On a monsoon day atop Malvantha Raghunatha Hill, the Shiva Temple stands serenely amid the wet rocks . Heav clouds loom overhead, casting a mystical ambiance over the landscape. The rain-soaked ground around the temple forms puddles that perfectly reflect the temple’s majestic structure and the brooding sky above. These reflections create a mirror-like effect, blending the earthly and the divine…


Dawn’s Glow on Hampi’s Cobblestone Pathways

At dawn, the medieval cobblestone roads of Hampi come alive, creating a breathtaking scene as the first light of the day spills over the ancient landscape. These historic pathways, gracefully aged and partially covered with lush grass, whisper tales of bygone eras. The soft morning light casts a golden hue on the stones, highlighting their uneven surfaces and revealing the vibrant greens that weave through the cracks. As the mist lifts, the tranquil ambiance and rich history of this UNESCO World Heritage Site unfold, offering a mesmerizing glimpse into the past amid the serene beauty of the present.


Echoes of Ramayana: Sugreeva’s Cave and the Footprints of Legends

In the heart of Hampi lies Sugreeva’s Cave, a place steeped in legend and history. This cave is believed to be where Sugreeva, the exiled Vanara king, sought refuge. Hampi itself is often identified as the ancient kingdom of Kishkinda, the realm of the Vanaras from the epic Ramayana. Near Sugreeva’s Cave, visitors can find intriguing sculptures of two feet, thought to commemorate the presence of Rama and Lakshmana during their quest to rescue Sita. These footprints, etched in stone, serve as a poignant reminder of the timeless tales and heroic figures that have shaped the cultural and spiritual landscape of this enchanting region.


Monsoon’s Embrace: The Linga by the Tungabhadra River:

Carved on the banks of the Tungabhadra River, the Linga stands amidst the lively dance of monsoon breezes that ripple across the water. The river, touched by the refreshing gusts, swirls energetically around the ancient sculpture, creating a dynamic interplay of light and movement. With Rushya Mukha Hill rising majestically in the background, this scene becomes a vivid reflection of Hampi’s timeless beauty and spiritual depth. The combination of the lively river and the serene backdrop offers a profound sense of peace and connection, inviting contemplation amid the vibrant energies of nature.


A Bonus Trip to Daroji Bear Sanctuary

On our first day, we took a diversion to the Daroji Bear Sanctuary after the first session in Hampi. The Indian sloth bear resides in this sanctuary, which is roughly 15 kilometers from Hampi. The 82 square-kilometer Daroji Bear Sanctuary was created in 1994 and offers a safe refuge for bears like these as well as other animals like hyenas, leopards, and numerous bird species.

We had the good fortune to see several sloth bears searching for food with their babies while we were there. During the monsoon, the sanctuary’s lush, green scenery was a joy to behold and offered fantastic chances for wildlife photography. The informed staff at the sanctuary assisted us in learning more about the behavior and conservation activities pertaining to these amazing animals.

Images from Daroji

A Heartwarming Encounter with a Sloth Bear Family
Sloth Bear and its precious cargo

In the serene wilderness, we were fortunate to witness an enchanting sight: a sloth bear with her playful cubs clinging to her back as they navigated the rocky terrain and forest floor with grace and curiosity. The mother bear, ever watchful and protective, carried her cubs over the uneven ground, their tiny paws gently wrapped around her fur. This unforgettable moment,epitomized the raw beauty and tender bond of wildlife in their natural habitat.


The female Painted Spurfowl

The female Painted Spurfowl (Galloperdix lunulata) is an understated beauty, adorned with earthy browns and subtle patterns that provide excellent camouflage in her natural habitat. Unlike the more vividly colored males, the female’s plumage consists of muted shades and intricate markings that blend seamlessly with the rocky hillsides, dry deciduous forests, and scrublands where she resides. These ground-dwelling birds are adept foragers, searching for seeds, insects, and small invertebrates among the underbrush. The female’s elusive nature and preference for dense cover make her a rewarding but challenging find for birdwatchers and photographers. Her quiet elegance and vital role in the ecosystem highlight the intricate balance of biodiversity in the Indian subcontinent.


Tips for Monsoon Photography in Hampi

  1. Carry Weather Protection: Ensure your camera and lenses are well-protected from the rain. A weather-sealed camera or protective cover can be very useful.
  2. Use a tripod: The low light conditions during the monsoon can result in longer exposure times. A tripod helps keep your shots sharp. However, it’s important to note that using a tripod within the protected monuments requires permission from the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Make sure to obtain the necessary permits beforehand or be ready to use higher ISO.
  3. Explore Different Perspectives: Wet surfaces can create beautiful reflections. Look for puddles and wet stones to add a unique perspective to your shots.
  4. Capture the Mood: The monsoon season adds a mystical aura to Hampi. Embrace the moody skies and the interplay of light and shadows.

A Journey to Remember

There was more to our monsoon vacation to Hampi than merely taking pictures. Exploring the rich history and architecture of this historic city was like taking a trip back in time. From the breathtaking trip in our Suzuki Jimny to the breathtaking views of Hampi’s monuments and sculptures, Harish, GR Pandith, and I relished every second of it. The addition of a layer of enchantment by the monsoon made our recollections and photos much more spectacular.

Whether you love history or photography, a trip to Hampi in the monsoon season is sure to enthrall and inspire you.

Thank you if you like the blog, You can leave a comment on Home  page.

Cheers ,

Goutham Ramesh

Kashmir and Ladakh road trip-2022

Kashmir and Ladakh

Dream that came true.

Some dreams come true as a surprise. I always wanted to visit Kashmir and Ladakh for a long time and had been pestering my colleague and buddy Tanveer to take me there. Tanveer is a tech entrepreneur, an avid traveler and photographer. One day during lunch in office we just decided to escape this madness called corporate life and travel to this beautiful place and the tickets were booked within minutes. (Yes, we booked tickets without even planning). The plan was to drive from Srinagar to Ladakh!

Planning:

Next came the planning, Tanveer with his excellent planning skills created a plan for the trip which was fool-proof and amazing with the minutest detail.  

Plan … Zoom to read

Bengaluru to Srinagar:

With great excitement we took an early morning flight to Srinagar on Day-1 and immediately I started clicking some pictures from aircraft.

Tanveer and Myself at Bengaluru International Airport
Inside flight on the way to Srinagar
Nandi Hills, Near Bengaluru after take off

In India, wheat crop is grown mainly in the Northern states, with Uttar Pradesh being the top-most contributor of wheat with a total production of 25.22 million tonnes, followed by Punjab (15.78 MT) and Madhya Pradesh (14.18 MT). Here is the aerial shot of wheat fields of Punjab

Wheat Fields of Punjab

As we fly into Kashmir Valley, we fly through “Pir Panjal Range”. The Pir Panjal Range is a group of mountains in the inner Himalayan region, the largest in the lower group of the majestic Himalayas. It lies south of the main outer Himalayan chain of mountains.

Pir Panjal Range extends from the Nilam River in western Kashmir, to the upper Beas River in the North-Western part of Himachal Pradesh. Running from the West-Northwest direction to East-Southeast direction, the Pir Panjal Range covers a distance of more than 200 miles or 320 kilometres

Pir Panjal Range
Pir Panjal Range

Once we cross Pir Panjal Range, the beautiful Kashmir valley can be seen and it is a sight to behold.

The Kashmir Valley, also known as the Vale of Kashmir, is a valley concentrated in the Kashmir of India, it is bounded on the southwest by the Pir Panjal Range and on the northeast by the main Himalayan range.

The Valley, paradise on earth

Jammu & Kashmir is an agri-horticulture state where a large population is economically dependent to agriculture and horticulture, directly or indirectly for livelihood, food and nutritional security. Rice, the staple food of majority population is cultivated in diverse agro-ecological situations extending from subtropical area of Jammu, through temperate valley to cold high altitudes regions of Kashmir, and therefore rice biodiversity is rich in Kashmir.

Rice fields of Kashmir

Day 1-2 : Srinagar

Once in Srinagar, we started exploring the local tourist places and also the famous gardens and Dal Lake.

I Love Srinagar

Khawa

Khawa is a Kashmiri tea flavored with cinnamon, cardamom, and saffron. It is a great drink to sip on cold winter days but can be had throughout the year. Khawa is served in a traditional samovar! A samovar (Kashmiri: samavar) is a traditional Kashmiri kettle used to brew, boil and serve Kashmiri salted tea and Khawa. Kashmiri samovars are made of copper with engraved or embossed calligraphic motifs. The Samovar is an all-time favourite domestic utensil in the entire valley of Kashmir. It is one of the finest examples of the splendid art or craftsmanship and is known for its superb quality and distinct design.

Samavar
Khawa

Chashme Shahi

Chashme Shahi is one of the Mughal gardens built in 1632 AD around a spring by Ali Mardan Khan, a governor of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as per the orders of the Emperor, as a gift for his eldest son Prince Dara Shikoh. The garden is located in the Zabarwan Range, near Raj Bhawan (Governor’s house) overlooking Dal Lake in Srinagar, Kashmir, India.

Chasme Shahi Garden

Pari Mahal

Pari Mahal or Peer Mahal, also known as The Palace of Fairies, is a seven-terraced garden located at the top of Zabarwan mountain range, overlooking the city of Srinagar and the south-west of Dal Lake

Srinagar Shalimar area from Pari Mahal
Pari Mahal
Dal Lake from Pari Mahal

Day 2-3 : Gulmarg

Our next stop was Gulmarg! Gulmarg also known as Gulmarag in Kashmiri, is a town, hill station, popular skiing destination, and notified area committee in the Baramulla district of Jammu and Kashmir, India. It is located at a distance of 31 km from Baramulla and 49 km from Srinagar.

Gulmarg with its flowers
Shiva Temple with Mount Afarwat in the background
Shiva Temple
At Dusk

Kongdoori ( Gulmarg )

Kongdori is a bowl-shaped area that lies between Gulmarg and the summit on the Apharwat mountain range. Kongdori is also a stop or a station during the Gulmarg Gondola Cable Car journey. The popular cable car’s first stage was a transfer to the Kongdori Valley station (10,500 ft); the optional second stage takes visitors to the Afarwat Mountaintop (13,500 ft). There are glorious views of the rolling meadows at the foot of the Afarwat Mountains, in the Pir Panjal ranges surrounding Gulmarg.

Kongdoori
Tourists with pony’s at Kongdoori

Day 3-4 : Sonamarg

From Gulmarg we drove to Sonamarg.

Sonamarg or Sonmarg, known as Sonamarg in Kashmir, is a hill station located in the Ganderbal District of Jammu and Kashmir, India. It is located about 62 Kilometers from Ganderbal Town and 80 kilometres northeast of the capital city, Srinagar and it is on the way to Leh.

Tanveer and Myself at Sonamarg


Thajiwas Glacier

No Visit to Sonamarg is complete without visiting Thajiwas Glacier. Thajiwas Glacier, located at an altitude of 9,186 feet at a short distance from Sonmarg in Jammu & Kashmir, is enormous and blessed with magnificent beauty. Overlooked by the Thajiwas mountain and surrounded by meadows, conifer trees and frozen lakes, it is one of the most beautiful sights you will ever come across. Tourists visit Thajiwas Glacier for enjoying its breathtaking sights, building snowmen & enjoying a sledding ride. You can also take a short hike to the several waterfalls surrounding the Thajiwas Glacier

On the way to the Glacier
My self at glacier
Tanveer at Thajiwas

At the glacier area you will find lot of Bakarwal tribe with their sheep. The Bakarwal community is listed as Scheduled Tribes along with Gujjars in Jammu and Kashmir in 1991. They are a nomadic tribe and they spread over a large part starting from Pir Panjal Range to Hindukush to Ladakh located in Himalayan mountains of South Asia. They are goat herders and shepherds at large and seasonally migrate from one place to another with their herds. They are found in the entire Kashmir region between India and Pakistan, and in the Nuristan Province of northeast Afghanistan

Myself with a Bhkarwal Kid!
Thajiwas landscape dotted with Bhakarwal Tents
Glacier area
Water gushing through Glacier area
The Valley with tourists

Day 5 : Sonamarg to Leh

This was an adventure of a lifetime, we drove from Sonamarg to Leh via Zoji la pass.

Zoji La is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 3.528m (11,575ft) above the sea level, located in the Kargil district of Ladakh, in India. This strip of rock is not the place for a Sunday drive. It’s said to be one of the most treacherous passes in the world.Don’t go by my image , this was after we passed shivering and chilling mountain pass.

The road over the pass is termed as the gateway to the majestic Ladakh.

Zoji-la Road
Glacier at Zoji-La
Myself and Tanveer at Zoji-La

Towards Ladakh a drastic change in landscape

The drive through Srinagar to Leh is amazing and it lets you experience a wide variety of landscapes like green valley surrounded by snow covered peaks to mount passes , but once you cross kashmir valley the landscape of Ladakh is so different , desolate yet beautiful . This drive from Srinagar to Leh is highly recommended for ppl who love driving.

Road to Leh

As we drive towards Leh, not only the landscape changes but also the culture and you can see many small stupas dotting the landscape. Stupas are a monument, originally in the shape of a hemispherical mound, that contains the bodily relics or possessions of the Buddha or a revered teacher

Monasteries in Ladakh are much more than religious centres. Located in heaven that Ladakh is, these famous monasteries are purifying havens where one can find inner peace. This is one such Monastery that dots the landscape .

Monastery

Indus River, Tibetan and Sanskrit Sindhu, Sindhi Sindhu or Mehran, great trans-Himalayan river of South Asia. It is one of the longest rivers in the world, with a length of some 2,000 miles (3,200 km). Its total drainage area is about 450,000 square miles (1,165,000 square km), of which 175,000 square miles (453,000 square km) lie in the ranges and foothills of the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush, and the Karakoram Range;

Indus

The Indus river originates in the Tibetan Plateau near the Manasarovar range, whereas the Zanskar has its source in the Zanskar valley. Both the rivers kiss each other near the scenic Nimmu valley, that falls between Leh and Kargil. The rivers are clearly distinguished by their colours and the confluence can be best viewed during the spring-summer months, from March to May.

Confluence of Indus and Zanskar

Lamayuru or Yuru Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Lamayouro, Leh district, Ladakh, India. It is situated on the Srinagar-Leh highway 15 kilometres east of the Fotu La at a height of 3,510 metres.

Lamayaru

After a 12 hour journey we reached Leh

Leh

Day 5-6-7 : Leh

Leh is the joint capital and largest city of the region administered by India as a union territory of Ladakh, Here we had to rest at acclimatize for 2 days to get used to Low oxygen levels. But we did some local sightseeing alone with some rest.

Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa is a Buddhist white-domed stupa (chorten) on a hilltop in Chanspa, Leh district, Ladakh, in North India. It was built in 1991 by Japanese Buddhist Bhikshu, Gyomyo Nakamura and part of the Peace Pagoda mission. The Shanti Stupa holds the relics of the Buddha at its base, enshrined by the 14th Dalai Lama. The stupa has become a tourist attraction not only due to its religious significance but also due to its location which provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

Shanti Stupa
Leh after Sunset

Matho Monastery

Matho Monastery, or Matho Gonpa or Mangtro Monastery or Mangtro Gonpa, from the Tibetan “mang” that means “many” and “tro” that means “happiness”, is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery located 26 kilometres southeast of Leh in Ladakh, Northern India, on the banks of the Indus River. The village of Matho is located at the mouth of a deep gorge running out of the Zanskar Range and across the Indus. It is directly opposite Thikse Monastery.

Matho Monastery
Stairs to matho
Shrine Inside Matho Monastery

Sindhu Ghat

Sindhu Ghat is the banks of the Indus River in the Ladakh. It is a very peaceful river-bank in the surreal landscape of the Ladakh. Sindhu ghat is quite close to Leh and can be easily combined with a visit to Shey palace and Stok village.

Sindhu Ghat
Monk at Sindhu Ghat

Teju!

Tejaswini is a cousin of mine and I met her in Leh! She is a a brave and adventurous soul who stayed Himalayas for couple of months and who travelled Himachal pradesh and Ladakh on a scooty. You can see her images on her instagram page. https://www.instagram.com/tejaswini_manohar/

With Teju , Leh

Day 7-8 : Leh to Nubra

After 2 days of acclimatization we started driving towards Nubra Valley.

Leh-Ladakh- Land of high passes is the epitome of unlimited adventure and unfathomable beauty. One of the gems of this newly made union territory is the mesmerizing Nubra Valley. This is a fantastic stretch of trail and Leh to Nubra Valley is enjoyed by every traveler. Starting from the capital of Ladakh you get to cross one of the highest motorable roads- Khardung La. From there you will go ahead to Khalsar which is another wonderful spot on this trail.

Crossing the Shyok River, you then have to ride along the Nubra River to reach Nubra Valley. It is a tri-armed valley that sees a separation from Shyok and Siachen Rivers. Nubra is unlike any other valley in the entire country because of the magnificence it has on offer. This breathtakingly beautiful valley is popular for its picturesque landscapes and cold desert. Being the top tourist attraction of Ladakh, Nubra Valley is also famous for Hundar Village and Diskit Monastery. These are two of many go-to attractions in Nubra Valley.

Khardungla Pass!

Khardung La or Khardung Pass is a mountain pass in the Leh district of the Indian union territory of Ladakh. The pass is on the Ladakh Range, North of Leh, and connects the Indus river valley and the Shyok river valley. It also forms the gateway to the Nubra valley, beyond which lies the Siachen Glacier. A motorable road through the pass was built in 1976, and opened to public motor vehicles in 1988. Maintained by the Border Roads Organisation, the pass is important to India as it is used to carry supplies to the Siachen Glacier. The road is one of the world’s highest motorable roads

Tanveer and Myself at khardungla
At 17,600 Ft above Sea level and health advisory
Blood Oxygen at 67 %, This means time to move on
Road to Nubra from Khardungla
Mountain Road, Khardungla

Khardungla Pass!

Nubra

Known for its orchards, scenic vistas, Bactrian camels and monasteries; Nubra Valley is the Northernmost part of Jammu and Kashmir. Situated about 150 km from Leh, Nubra Valley is known as the Orchard of Ladakh and was originally called Ldumra which meant the valley of flowers.

Surrounded by snowcapped Himalayan ranges, Nubra valley lies sandwiched between Tibet and Kashmir. The view of the valley is picturesque and breathtaking. During winter, the whole valley looks like landscape of the moon (reason for calling Moonland) and in summer full of greenery.

Road to Nubra valley
Confluence of Rivers Nubra valley

Hunder

Nubra Valley in Ladakh holds so many surprises for the visitors. One such surprise awaits you at the Hunder Sand Dunes, located about 10 kilometers from Diskit village. Usually, people think of brown sand & one humped camels when the word desert visits their mind, but a different picture awaits you in Hunder. They are famous because of their white rolling sands, with a river flowing close by, trees & snow-capped mountains in the distance. It is unbelievable, when one thinks of it, that a desert could exist at so high an altitude! Equally surprising is the sight of the double humped Bactrian camels, whose two humps enable them to develop resistance to cold, drought & high altitudes. As the evening approaches, and the barren mountains are covered with the crimson hues of the sun, you wonder how such a place could exist in this mad chaotic world of ours.

As sun sets, the colors that the mountains take are breathtaking and with bactrian camels dotting the landscape its a paradise.

Nubra Camel Ride

The Bactrian or double-humped camel is one of the last remnants of the Silk Road trade in India. These camels, from China and central Asian countries such as Mongolia and Kazakhstan, would carry heavy loads along the rugged terrain of the trade route via Ladakh.

With the closure of the Silk Road, many were left abandoned in Ladakh’s Nubra Valley. The development of modern transport facilities in the remote areas meant the animals weren’t needed anymore. Overlooked and uncared for, their numbers dwindled, pushing them to the brink of extinction in the country.

Since the early 2000s though, the number of Bactrian camels in Nubra has increased—thanks to the residents of the Hunder village in the valley. In 2003, they decided to start camel safaris. As the initiative grew in popularity, the villagers formed the Central Asia Camel Safari, a registered cooperative society in 2009. Other villages in the region, such as Sumoor, Diskit, and Tigger, also jumped on the bandwagon, forming their own camel unions.

Today these safaris, whether along the breathtakingly beautiful Shyok River in the Nubra valley or in areas close to the base camp of the Siachen Glacier, are a big draw with tourists.

Camel Safari
Camel Safari at Hunder
Camels with Diskit Monastery in the background

Day 8-9 : Nubra – Drass

The return leg of our journey started from Hunder to Drass. It was a fantastic drive back and we drove through Kargil and stayed at Drass.

Drass

Dras (also spelt Drass) is a hill station in the Kargil district of the union territory of Ladakh in India. It is on the NH 1 (former name NH 1D before renumbering of all national highways) between Zoji La pass and Kargil town. A tourist hub for its high altitude trekking routes and tourist sites, it is often called “The Gateway to Ladakh”. The government’s official spelling of the town is Drass.

Traditionally, Dras is known as Hem-babs, which means “snow land” with the word “Hem” meaning snow. The average temperature of Dras in winter is -20 degrees Celsius and Dras is the coldest place in India, experiencing an altitude-influenced Continental Mediterranean climate.

Dawn at Drass

Pizza at D’Meadows Drass ( One of the best I ever had )

Day 9-10: Drass- Srinagar

On this day we drove from Drass to Srinagar and also passed through Zojila pass again and had a view of Baltal Base camp and Draupadi Kund

As a child, I often wondered if destinations described in mythical stories were real. One such destination en route Drass from Zoji La, is Draupadi Kund, a magical little lake, surrounded by capped peaks and the misty blue sky. There are many stories attached to this lake. A belief exists that here in Pandaras, a village on the outskirts of Drass is where Draupadi, the daughter of King Panchala in Mahabharata, bathed before finally ascending to the heavens in reach of the higher Himalayas.

You might easily miss this place while you drive, so look out for boards.

Draupadi Kund
Draupadi Kund
Baltal Base camp for Amarnath Yatra

Srinagar Dal lake

Dal is a lake in Srinagar, the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir. It is an urban lake, the second largest lake in Jammu and Kashmir, and the most visited place in Srinagar by tourists and locals.

Dal Lake
Sunset Dal Lake

Day 11 : Srinagar- Bengaluru

We concluded our trip by returning back to Bengaluru and I took some shots of Pir Panjal Range again!

Credits

That’s all, readers. Before I conclude I would like to thank Tanver and this trip would not have been possible without Tanveer, who organized this and I learnt a lot from him.

Also my thanks to Mr Javed ( Javed Bhai ) our driver who was with us for 10 days and also let me drive his car at times.

With Javed and Tanveer

Thanks if you like the blog, you can leave a comment at Home Page

Cheers

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is TransparentImage-4.png
Goutham Ramesh


Comments:

From: Hema Narayanan ( https://www.hemanarayanan.com/ )

Subject: Travel is oxygen…


… to me! It always has been.  It seemed, after reading your travelogue, that it is for you and Tanveer too. I am so in awe with your images.  Having been to Ladakh 5 times,  I never get enough dosage of oxygen,  blame it on the altitude:). I liked the way you measured the O2 level at Khardungla.

Nothing beats a drive towards Leh.  And you both have explored both Kashmir and Ladakh like true  “travellers” and this is the best way to explore a land.  Be it the authentic Khawa brewing tea pot or the bactrian camels at Nubra, I could feel the pulse of your travel.  Well written Logue.

I have one request to both of you – next time,  take me along :-).

A fellow traveler,
– Hema